I held out much hope for the Mount Pleasant Rosehill Shiraz 2004 after the overripe and tarry number from the previous year. Sadly I cannot help but feel that once again, you would be better off with a $12 Philip Shiraz instead.

Inviting aromas of cherries, blackcurrant, nutmeg and clove. The robust palate is filled with rich dark fruits and berries, chocolate, pepper and cedar oak. Definitely full bodied, not overly “huntery” and a touch warm on the finish.

This is a wine that belies the vintage, since most Hunter Shiraz from 2004 is far leaner and “classically hunter” in style. Although better than the previous year, I am left yearning for the Rosehill wines of 2000 and 2001.

Score: 88/100
Price: $30
Closure: Cork
Alcohol: 15%
Would I buy this wine again?
No, pick up some OP&OH Shiraz from 2003 instead

Tasting notes:

Plum sauce, cola, black licorice, and tobacco on the nose

Full-bodied and thick on the palate

Finishes with moderately strong tannins and layers of currants, cocoa, and smoke

This is a good solid Chateauneuf. It's not a modern interpretation, but rather a traditional style with some real heft and nice layers.

I paid around $35 for this wine several years ago. Raise a glass!

Tasting notes:

Plum sauce, cola, black licorice, and tobacco on the nose

Full-bodied and thick on the palate

Finishes with moderately strong tannins and layers of currants, cocoa, and smoke

This is a good solid Chateauneuf. It's not a modern interpretation, but rather a traditional style with some real heft and nice layers.

I paid around $35 for this wine several years ago. Raise a glass!

Négociant Cameron Hughes has made a name for himself selecting and sometimes blending wines that drink like twice or sometimes three times their asking price. Using direct to consumer marketing on his website and distribution through warehouse retailers like Costco and Sam’s Club, Hughes effectively disintermediates the 3-tier wine distribution system here in the U.S. This means he can make money selling $10-20 wines that he sources from some of the top producers around the world.

This past Saturday I presented three of his wines as part of Twitter Taste Live 5. All the wines were provided by Cameron Hughes as samples but I was very impressed with each wine which I will review over the next few weeks here. But the most impressive wine was a new release today, Lot 93, a 2004 Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja region.

When I opened this wine Saturday, the brand on the cork indicated the producer is Bodegas Covila. On my visit to the region last year, I was struck by how every winery seemed to age their wines as “shiners” or unlabeled, selling the wine when it was “ready to drink.” This old school philosophy makes many wines from Spain tremendous values and provides stock for folks like Cameron Hughes to buy and label for his customers. The result is one of the best values I’ve ever seen as this could easily sell for $50-60 a bottle.

Tasting notes:

Cameron Hughes, “Lot 93″, Tempranillo, Rioja 2004 ($21/sample) - Dark ruby in color with black cherry, cassis, fennel, cocoa and vanilla aromas. Sleek and concentrated black cherry & dark currant fruit with some black pepper and a touch of earth finishing long with firm, but surprisingly well integrated, tannins. A well structured wine that will age for another 5-8 years. The most extreme value I’ve tasted yet from this négociant. Highly recommended.

13.5% ABV
Natural cork closure
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Buy this wine online

An amazing dinner at Tetsuya’s last weekend to celebrate a friend’s birthday, I’ll let the tasting notes and the pictures of the wine then food tell the story.

1981 Krug
This is a wine that I have always wanted to try (being my birth year) and I was very lucky to get the chance on this night. Golden coloured, with a lazy, meandering bead. Powerful ginger, spice, earth, toffee, creme brulee and cedar aromas on the nose. Incredibly deep flavour and complexity, with fresh acidity sweeping over the palate into a long and memorable finish. Kept improving the longer I left it.
97/100

1982 Krug
A year and a half ago I had this wine from the same source and it looked a touch awkward (while still being excellent), but tonight it was much improved. Light gold colour with straw highlights, an insanely fine bead - probably the finest I’ve ever seen. Aromas of almond, coffee, black truffles, vanilla and ginger came to the fore as the wine warmed up in the glass. The palate is vibrant, with great acidity laid over complex flavours. Still developing, another 5 years and I think it will be close to maturity.
95/100

1990 Domaine Zind-Humbrecht Hengst Gewürztraminer Vendange Tardive
Golden coloured, this wine possessed an ever shifting, evolving nose of spices, honey, lychee, pineapple and rose petals. The palate possesses an astonishing balance between weight and refreshment. Rich, complex, deep and softly sweet, but with superb acidity, focus and purity of fruit. None of the oily or warm alcohol characters I often get from this grape and region. Close to the best Alsatian wine I’ve ever had.
96/100

1965 Lindemans Bin 3110 Hunter River “Burgundy” (classic release)
This is one of the legends of Hunter Valley and Australian wine. Still deeply purple coloured, fading slightly to red at the rim. The nose is intoxicating and layered with notes of earth, tobacco, liquorice, leather, blackberries and five spice. The palate is so composed and well balanced. Harmony reigns among the various elements right up to the long finish. Very different in style to some other great old Australian wines I’ve tried, but superb in its own right and very representative of the Hunter Valley.
97/100

1953 Domaine J. Faiveley Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Les Saint-Georges
Very lightly coloured. The nose on this wine was one of the most unique I have ever seen, along with cherry, earth and spices there was a beguiling character that I followed for some time, in the end only being able to describe it as akin to tropical fruit! The palate has superb definition and the structure that has allowed it to live to this age is still clearly evident. If there is one shortcoming, it is that the fruit is a touch thin, but otherwise the balance is very good - it seems that those famous Faiveley tannins do eventually integrate (it just takes 55 years! ).
94/100

1990 Domaine Leroy Clos de Vougeot
This wine is a strong argument in favour of the excellent reputation of this fine estate. A bold, brooding nose of cherry, strawberry, liquorice, black tea, game and forest floor. There is a richness to the palate, but it is finely textured and exists alongside the structural elegance of the wine rather than pushing the palate around and dominating. Drank well tonight, but will continue to improve over the next 10 years.
95/100

1966 Château Palmer (Margaux)
Youthful in colour. A nose that has both primary and secondary characters wound together with raspberry, cedar, tobacco, cinnamon, violets and graphite. The palate is velvet smooth, this is an absolute pleasure to drink. The elements of the palate are resolved in full and work together in harmony. Classic top-shelf Bordeaux.
96/100

1975 Château Lafleur (Pomerol)
Corked A few were brave enough to taste this and proclaimed that underneath the taint it was exceptional, but I was not willing to try.
NR/100

1990 Gaja Barbaresco Sori Tilden (Piedmont)
Deeply coloured. One of the most complex, haunting and evocative noses I have ever had the privilege to experience - there were aromas of blackberry, rose petals, anise, pine, smoke, plum and layers more - with every sniff there was something new uncovered. There is a wonderful intensity to the palate, it is as though all the elements have been magnified but somehow remain in balance with a wave of pure fruit, striking acidity and the finest of tannin. On a night of legendary wines, this wine somehow rose above and was my favourite wine of the evening. I don’t give out 100 point scores often (4 wines so far) … and I’m not going to for this, but I really feel like I could, it is so very tempting.
99/100

1982 Penfolds Grange
A nose of blackberry, cedar, liquorice, vanilla, red and black currant. Youthful and very fresh with bold and bursting with flavour, but maintains its balance across the long length of the palate. Drinking beautifully well now. Consistent with the previous bottle I tasted a year prior, one of my favourite Granges.
95/100

1990 Lindemans Sesquicentenary Release Coonawarra Cabernet Sauvignon (magnum)
91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Shiraz. An aroma of tomato leaf dominates the nose, behind it are some notes of raspberry, blackberry and a touch of briar. The texture of the palate is good with elegant primary fruit characters and good balance. Drinking well now but will develop and improve over the next 10 years. Was not shamed among some of the great wines from around the world.
91/100

1928 Marc Brédif Vouvray
A dazzling light straw-golden in colour. The aromas were surprisingly fresh - lots of pear, apple, honey, blueberry, ginger, oats and cloves. Amazing acidity and depth still present on the palate. It actually got better after an hour in the glass, taking on extra weight of flavour. This wasn’t showing any signs of falling apart, maybe good bottles will live forever!
94/100

1981 Jakob Gerhardt Niersteiner Frauenkirchner Bouvier and Traminer TBA (Austria)
Deeply coloured, almost like a tokay, but with strands of gold. Deep scents of apricot, marmalade, honey and apples. Great depth on the palate, with strong sweetness and a viscous mouth-feel balanced by very good acidity. Great persistence. Drink now.
93/100

1968 d’Oliveira Reserva Boal Madeira (Portugal)
Nutty, burnt toast, caramel, banana and a very familiar medicinal aroma from my childhood (possibly amoxicillin). There is a bitterness to the palate and the alcohol stands out. It is very long and intense, but I couldn’t really get into this.
86/100

Chestnut Mushroom Soup with Truffle Salt

Italian White Roll and Truffle Butter

Smoked Ocean Trout and Avruga Caviar with Scallop Mousse and Quail Egg

Leek and Crab Custard

Grilled Scampi Wrapped in Pancetta

Scampi in Sea Water and Lemon Scented Olive Oil

Marinated Scampi with White Miso and Passionfruit

Confit of Petuna Tasmanian Ocean Trout with Konbu, Apple, Fennel and Witlof

Antarctic Black Cod with Globe Artichoke and Yuzu Vinaigrette

Roasted Breast of Quail with Soft Polenta and Shiitake Mushrooms

Slow Roasted De-Boned Rack of Lamb with Blue Cheese and White Miso

Grass Fed Angus Beef Fillet with Blewitt and Chestnut Mushrooms

Cheese

Apple Sorbet with Apple Jelly

Mont Blanc

Apple Tarte Tartin with Calvados Cream Ice Cream

Chocolate Terrine with Mascarpone and Cognac Anglaise

Petit Four

Macchiato

My first time at this restaurant in Sydney.

I thought the food was of a high standard with good use of fresh ingredients and I felt like it was good value for the money (ended up around $75 a head for food, corkage and tip). We needed to take care with some of the dishes and the spice clashing with the wines (the Hokkien noodles especially!) but it was manageable. We had the table for 6-8 people that you can book, any more than 6 people and I think it would have been too squished.

The food was as follows:

Steamed Prawn Wontons with Organic Brown Rice Vinegar Dressing
Steamed Scallop Wontons with Sichuan Chilli Oil
Homestyle Fried Biodynamic Eggs with Organic Soy & Homemade XO
Sung Choi Bao of Free-Range ‘Kurobuta’ Pork, Ginger & Mushrooms

Organic Steamed and Fried Rice

The wines were;

1995 Jacquesson Signature Grand Vin:
The nose is bready, with lemons and green apples coming through. Youthful and taut on the palate with lemony acid at the fore. Very good, and it should get better as it unwinds over the next 7-10+ years.
90/100

2002 Marcel Deiss Altenberg de Bergheim GC Alsace:
Nutty, orange peel, peach, smoke and floral notes. Richly fruited with opulent weight. Balanced palate, with the acidity holding up to the residual sugar and fruit sweetness. Finishes long and clean. Was a superb match with the slightly spicy Asian food being consumed.
94/100

1996 Zind Humbrecht Riesling Rangen de Thann Clos St Urbain:
Light citrus, minerals and a touch of candy on the nose. The palate is incredibly austere. The length is good, but with the acid dominating the palate, it was not very enjoyable.
85/100

2000 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne:
Cashew nuts, smoke, graphite and chalky aromas comprise the nose. Lovely richness to the fruit on the palate. Balanced, long and very, very tasty. This is a beautiful wine that will only get better as it develops over the next 8-10 years.
93/100

2000 Fourrier Clos St Jacques:
Earth and game meat aromas on the nose. Nicely balanced and textured on the palate. Seems to be in a pretty approachable place at the moment, although it is lacking some depth.
90/100

2004 Dugat-Py Charmes Chambertin:
Forward, interesting nose of green beans, tobacco leaf, spice, blackcurrant and cherry aromas. The palate shows some green, slightly under ripe tannins. Good length, but the green elements distract from the experience.
88/100

2006 Hillcrest Reserve Pinot Noir:
Cherry, floral, earth and spice aromas on the nose. Excellent layers and balance to the palate. Sweet fruit provides good weight and the tannins and acid provide great structure. A wine of obviously high quality and I think it will develop well in the bottle over the next 5-10 years.
92/100

1986 Chateau L’Eglise Clinet:
Savoury aromas of game, smoke and tobacco - with some time the aromas became more bretty and animal like and a bit overpowering. Palate was smooth, medium bodied and well resolved. Best on pouring, the brett coming forward was a shame but it was still quite nice overall.
89/100

1997 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino Riserva:
Complex nose of floral notes with tar, liquorice, blackcurrant and cherry. Well structured and balanced palate, with the bold, deep set fruit balanced well with the medium intensity tannins and well integrated acidity. Delicious.
92/100

NV Campbells Merchant Prince Rare Muscat:
Maple syrup, caramel, coconut, brown sugar and raisin aromas on the complex, layered nose. Palate is superb - balanced, complex, delicious and brilliantly long. Technically and tactically world class.
97/100