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[11/20/2008, 05:00]

Neither Hail Nor Mildew Can Stay Beaujolais Nouveau (Wine Spectator)

A blind tasting of 9 of the first French wines of 2008 (plus one Italian) shows a vintage with promise, thanks to excellent weather in September


[11/22/2008, 02:38]

City Room: Mass Meets Class for Artisanal Cheeses

Murray?s Cheese, the renowned Greenwich Village cheese shop, has partnered with Kroger, the country?s largest supermarket chain.

[11/04/2008, 09:08]

Jury Duty and Life

I need to continue my WBC insiders posts but the last few days have been dominated by kids’ fevers, doctor visits, and this week potential jury duty.

Sorry for the slacking on the posts but I’ll get to it soon enough!

closeout wine rack
closeout wine rack
[04/23/2008, 07:01]

Some quick notes

Domaine Weinbach Schlossberg Grand Cru Cuvee St.Catherine Riesling 2004 (375mL)
Peaches, pears, orange peel and marmalade on the nose. A rich, viscous and weighty palate with excellent texture and length. Bold, but balanced.
92/100

Domaine Fourrier Les Goulots 1er Gevery-Chambertin 2003
A nose of red berries, candy, violets, chocolate and cinnamon. Touch of stalk to the medium bodied palate. Decent length and structure. Nice.
88/100

P&C Bonnefond Cote Rotie 2001
Licorice, dark chocolate, raspberry and coffee aromas. A juicy, ripe palate with the elements of the wine well integrated. Very good.
90/100

Taylors Vintage Port 1977 (375mL)
Vanilla, jasmine tea, licorice and cedar. Palate is smooth and of medium length, but doesn’t have the complexity or depth I expected. A bit of a let down as it is meant to be amazing.
88/100

[11/13/2008, 03:47]

Books on wine

closeout wine rackAs much as I love books and in particular books on wine, it is apparent I have too many of them. At last count there was over 70. Most have been idle and untouched for years, collecting dust and musty smells. Recently, I gathered the least loved, mainly the ones full of tasting notes and numbers (perhaps that is a lesson for writers of wine blogs too) and visited several second book merchants. I had low expectations which proved excessive. I had thought someone would at least offer $10 for my twenty books. In the end, no one was interested, the purveyors of trashy second hand novels said my books on wine were worthless. . . Of course this unsupported secondary market means that occasionally treasures at bargain prices can be found. In the image above (which are some of the books I kept), there are two such finds. A first edition of the World Atlas of Wine set me back 50 cents (Church fair in the rural town of Albany) and George Saintsbury's classic book was only two dollars.

For those interested in old wine books, in particular books full of tasting notes and numbers, I'd suggest visiting your local Good Samaritan store, I've heard that some new stock has just arrived.
[11/20/2008, 02:52]

Nov 20, Wine regions for alternative varietal wines

These wine regions in Australia make innovative wines from alternative grape varieties
[07/13/2008, 03:30]

Godello: More Please?

?You haven?t posted much recently?? Really, no way?I could only wish the reason behind this was holiday-making. Life is currently beyond hectic, recently going from consulting job back to teaching and onwards with a complicated move. Sometimes, I find that life (as in working, family events, consulting travel, etc.) can get in the way of reading an overpopulated Google Reader inbox and commenting on every blog and forum across e-creation. In fact and admittedly, I must say that I sort of prefer real life to this whole thing, though at any rate, I love to write, and I?m sort of pining for more precious time to write, whether on wine or a multitude of other subjects.

Pleasure aside, ?you know what time it is, it?s business time.? Who could possibly wait until early 2009 for more FOTC? At any rate, the intention of this post? I would like to see more artisan Godello imported and available in the North American market. This brilliant viño galego white, while being delicious and predominantly planted in the Valdeorras and Bierzo (yes, León) D.O.?s, is capable of conveying that the cool breezes, seascapes and gorgeous greenery of the region are all tangible in more ways than just through Albariño. I truly adore Rias Baixas Albariños, but I feel that little brother Godello needs some love too; and what better a time than now to try it out, since more regional producers than ever are beginning to invest serious attention in crafting these wines, with sights on the export markets in addition to the domestic one. I sort of find the idea of trying them side by side to be fun. Maybe find a nice Albariño (say a solid bottle of Códax or perhaps Pazo) to enjoy and compare alongside a crisp, complex Godello?goes without saying that some fresh seafood is in order here. Recommendations and notes upcoming?
[12/05/2007, 14:37]

Wonder Chicks Powers - ACTIVATE

closeout wine rack Another Moronic Convergence set for our place tonight: tonight's showdown is Monastrell/Mourvedre. So far, I think we have to Spanish, two Californian, and one French.

Highly anticipated results to follow...

[10/15/2008, 23:41]

Lodi Wine Country 2nd Annual First Sip Weekend!

Don't miss this opportunity to peek behind the cellar door and taste the wines of 2008 closeout wine racklong before their release!

Visit Lodi Wine Country for an amazing weekend of wine tasting, educational activities, chef demonstrations, barrel sampling, blending seminars, winemaking contests and food pairings! Meander from winery to winery to experience all that Lodi Wine Country has to offer!

40 Lodi wineries are poised to make this pre-holiday event memorable! Take the "First Sip" of Lodi's 2008 vintage wines straight from the barrel. Enjoy the fruits of our vintner's labor. Help to celebrate the end of another successful harvest!

Take advantage of advance ticket prices! For $35 each, a ticket grants you two days featuring the best of Lodi Wine Country! Click here for Ticket link to make your purchase today!

[12/14/2007, 20:35]

Dulka Cabernet Sauvignon 2005

closeout wine rackDulka is one of the most famous wine producing families in the town of Sremski Karlovci, near Novi Sad in Vojvodina. They produce wine since 1920 and have won a handful of awards at the Novi Sad agricultural fair throughout the years. Apart from producing wine, this familiy also produces bermet and brandies of highest qualities.

They have just recently started growing Cabernet Sauvignon, and 2005 is their second vintage. However, this wine is quite rich in both aroma and taste, much richer and deeper than other pure Cabernets around. The color is dark ruby red, the nose rich, so reminiscent of forests and the flavours are those of forest fruit and chocolate. It’s a good wine, can be enjoyed on it’s own.

Score: 8/10
Price: 540 RSD (?6.5)
Retailer: Rodi? MB, Airport City, Belgrade

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[11/21/2007, 23:01]

Planta?e Vranac Reserve 1998

BThis is a premium Montenegrin red wine made from the indigenous Vranac grape. The Reserve is produced from particulary good years, in small quantities, aged in barrels for several years. It is also aged in bottles for one year before being released to the market.

This is a dry wine, with a pleasant fruity nose. However, the impressions are far lower than it’s price. If you want to experience the Vranac variety the Montenegrin way, go for a regular Planta?e Vranac or their Vranac Pro Corde. They are much cheaper and the experience is almost the same.

Wines of the Vranac variety are produced throughout the region, apart from Montenegro, you can find them in Macedonia, Serbia, Croatia and Herzegovina.

Score: 7/10
Price: 15 euro (in Montenegro)

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WorldWine Tags: Vranac, Montenegro, Montenegrin Wines, Wine,
[10/11/2008, 11:14]

2008 HdR Ask the Wine Maker - II

Welcome to our video podcast 2008 Hospice Du Rhône Ask the Wine Maker - II - Video Show #46.

Click the Image Below to Play the Video:

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Right Click Here to Download File

Continuing our coverage of the 2008 Hospice du Rhône, we had some burning questions and we wanted some answers.
What do today’s winemakers, producers, importers, and attendees think of:
High alcohol wines?
Your favorite: French vs. American wines?
What’s your favorite amongst the 22 Rhone varietals?

For More Info on the Hospice Du Rhône: www.hospicedurhone.org

[10/10/2008, 01:58]

Fried mushies at Bilson's

by Martin Field Lunch was at Bilson?s in Sydney. Foster?s Group winemakers were hosting a roadshow for winewriters from all over. I?d asked for the vegetarian option at lunch and was dreading a glutinous risotto or an over-oreganoed, limp-wristed pasta. Should have trusted Bilson?s reputation, the chef presented as a main, one of their entrée items: Fricassee of Wild Mushrooms with Truffle and Poached Egg. Picture: a beautiful platescape of a perfectly poached egg surrounded by sautéed Shimeji mushrooms, King Brown mushrooms, chanterelles, oyster mushrooms, fresh black truffles. Anointing the egg is a ?salt? of marinated chanterelles, thinly sliced King Brown, black truffle slices and cepes. The accompanying sauce contains cepes, chanterelles and King Browns. Crowning the dish is a tiara of latte-hued foam made with madeira and mushroom cream. Not as complicated as it sounds but as delicious a course as ever I?ve been served. Went down very well with a goblet of Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico 2006.
[11/10/2008, 17:49]

The Wines of Portugal

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Port wines can seem like a challenging subject. There are all sorts of bottlings: vintage date, late-bottled vintage date, Colheitas, single Quintas, and still others know as ruby reserve, crusted, or white — and let?s not forget the various tawny Ports of 10, 20, 30 and 40 years of age. Why are there so many different bottlings, and where does one begin to explore all of these fortified wines? Thankfully, we had the opportunity to talk with Louisa Fry from the Port and Douro Wines Institute, an inter-professional council of growers and producers from this famous Portugese region.

Join us as we hear about the origins of Port, what it takes to get a vintage declared, and whether it’s called Port or Porto. We?ll also discuss the amazingly steep terraces of Portugal’s Douro region, and the varieties of grapes that are able to be blended into the final product. Of course, it wouldn’t be complete without hearing about the optimum time to drink Port.

For more info on the Wines of Portugal: www.ivdp.pt

Sponsor- Gold Medal Wine Club: www.goldmedalwineclub.com

Click Below to Play the Show:

Download audio file (GR-ENG-USA-2008-11-10.mp3)

Show #220
(1:02:49min 38MB)
[11/26/2008, 22:20]

Moss Wood Amy?s 2007

The first bottle I tasted was spoilt by a strong balsamic vinegar character so I asked for another. No such problems here - it’s a beauty. A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) Petit Verdot  (18%) Malbec (14%) and Merlot (2%) from the Montgomery Brothers Vineyard at Ellensbrook and the Glenmore and Bantry Bay Vineyards at [...]
[08/21/2008, 22:33]

Slovenia's Culinary Diversity and My Favorite Rebula

WWhat with the Summer Games currently placing China and its regional cuisines in the limelight in terms of reflecting nearly a continent?s worth of complex, multi-ethnic influences, we should also consider other similarly impressive culinary miracles that geographically take up an infinitesimally tiny fraction the size of China?say Slovenia. In my understanding at least, Slovenia has always represented a fascinating crossroads within an impossibly modest amount of land. Many diverse and even warring influences have laced Slovene customs, viticulture and cuisine. Somehow though, like a cultural or culinary manifestation of the metaphysical concept in J.L. Borges? The Aleph, individual influences never amass into an incomprehensible amalgamation, but rather, remain clearly discernible.

Whether in its fairly recent history as a sovereign republic, under communism or seemingly serving as the geopolitical puck between Napoleon and the Habsburgs? shuffleboard match, Slovenia?s former overlords and neighbors include decidedly unique food cultures?Croats, Istrian Italians, Hungarians and Austrians, among others. Bearing all of this in mind and turning our thoughts to the central concern here on Enotheque, I would like to recommend this wine from the Gori?ka Brda region. Aside from being one of the wines I?ve been enjoying recently, I chose to post on it because I strongly feel that it?s indicative of the impressive quality-value dynamic that importers and retailers could benefit from should markets seem more receptive to the artisan wines of Slovenia.

Even if one is already familiar with the Colli Orientali of Friuli?s Ribolla Gialla, the Slovene version, Rebula, is more than worth trying. As a whole, Slovenia and the Gori?ka Brda produce white wines of impressive caliber, be it from more distinctly regional varieties or others introduced from abroad: Briski Tokaji, Teran, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Sivi Pinot, Pinela, or Rebula for that matter. In terms of this one, vintner Matjaz Cetrtic farms Rebula on wide, terraced limestone vineyards, purposefully limiting yields to ensure lush, concentrated and nuanced wines. My notes follow for the 2004 Matjaz Cetrtic Ferdinand Rebula Brda:

Tasting Notes?

Appearance-wise, this wine is medium gold. The nose is clean and of medium intensity, with highly unusual though pleasantly different aromas of caramelized or burnt orange peel, citrus, flowers and minerals. Strange, delightful palate with just enough lemon acidity, hint of underripe green fruit flavors, minerality in the form of pebbles, as well as the aforementioned burnt orange peel flavor that leads into a nice finish. If in search of something wildly, completely different, I wouldn?t doubt to reach for more Slovene wines such as this Cetrtic Rebula.

As a closing note, should the unbelievable degree of complexity in tiny Slovenia?s food and wine heritages impress you and compel you towards further learning, visit the culinary section of what appears to be their official tourism portal on the web.
[12/04/2006, 07:21]

[01/06/2009, 16:31]

Holiday cooking report: Ribs and marrow

Never did get around to making that beef tenderloin I was hankering for (maybe in another couple of weeks), but I did try a recipe from The French Laundry Cookbook, which I received as a gift from my brother. (That cookbook celebrates its 10th birthday this year, by the way.)

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I decided to make the braised beef ribs with root vegetables and bone marrow to take to the New Year?s Eve pitch-in party we?ve attended annually for the past several years. It turned out well, and the old dog learned some new tricks. Author and Chef Thomas Keller says that any time an alcoholic beverage is to be used in a marinade, the alcohol should be burned off first. I didn?t know that, and didn?t think it was even possible to light wine ? but it is! After bringing my pot of aromatic vegetables and Terra Andina Cabernet to a boil I lit it, and was rewarded with a six-inch-high blue flame that burned for between five and 10 minutes. (I had used two bottles; presumably one bottle would burn half as long.)

Even though I described the ribs as ?expensive pot roast,? they were incredibly flavorful and fall-apart tender. My favorite part of the dish turned out to be the fried bone marrow, which was crisp on the outside and creamy on the inside, with a subtle, delicious flavor. They do require some planning ahead but aren?t difficult to make, and I?m sure I?ll whip up another batch before too long.

Chef Keller would probably be pained to see his dish served in a Pyrex casserole dish instead of elegantly presented on a small plate, but there were no complaints ? or leftovers. Thanks to phj73 for documenting it in his Flickr stream ? the chances of my spending another three days making a second batch just because I forgot to take photos were slim to nil.

Over the past 10 years The French Laundry Cookbook has no doubt been reviewed way too many times, but I?ll throw in my two cents? worth anyway. It?s a lovely book with gorgeous photographs, but it would be more at home on a coffee table than in the kitchen. As a cookbook, it leaves a lot to be desired ? it?s big, heavy, awkwardly shaped and printed on glossy paper. It?s so nice that you almost don?t want it anywhere near the kitchen, lest it get food stains on it ? and dogearing pages and making notes in the margins seems like desecration. I?ll no doubt get over that, but a companion volume for kitchen use sans photos and narratives ? The French Laundry Recipe Book, essentially ? would be a useful followup.

In the meantime, the blog French Laundry at Home is a good companion to the book, and a fun read to boot. It chronicles the experiences of a home cook named Carol as she makes all the recipes in the book, including some I?d never dream of tackling. She finished the book and that blog, and is now onto her next challenge: cooking her way through the Alinea cookbook.
[11/20/2008, 02:36]

Nov 20, Australian Wine News

Latest news and pages on the Vinodiversity site
[03/18/2008, 00:32]

March 17, 2008. Chateauneuf Du Pape followup.

A bit more than 1/2 year ago, we were in Chateauneuf du Pape. Anyway long story short. The sommelier at Beaucastel came up with a short video clip to explain the varietals and the philosophy going into CdP and Beaucastel in particular. Enjoy

http://www.dailymotion.com/register/ccbc48fdeb59759ac171c670f/7478619


P.S. Just got back from the South Island of NZ so expect something here on wines from Malborough and Nelson areas.
[01/23/2008, 11:34]

A Lambrusco for Wine Lovers

WYou cannot have a better match with a plate of salumi than with this wine. Chill it up a little bit, and start your engines. From the Grasparossa grape, I took a bottle over to a chef from Emilia-Romagna the other day. He has known me for years, but has rarely if ever acknowledged my presence in his world. When I handed the bottle to his son to give to him, you?d think I was his long lost cousin. His eyes lit up, he smiled, he liked me. He really, really, liked me. I owe it all to this friendly little Lambrusco.

Served slightly chilled, it is frizzante, and enters with a burst of slightly under-ripe dark cherry notes. Then the fruit kicks in and there, all of a sudden, you have a party on your palate.

Note: this wine is bone-dry.

Get yourself hooked up with a Lambrusco like this. It takes the snob off the table. It?s subtle and bold, delicate and a romp. It?s a serious wine that laughs at itself. Go get yourself some.

In the U.S. it retails for under $20.

Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro from Tenuta Pederzana.

[11/24/2008, 20:50]

A Little Comic Relief

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Image by ikelee via Flickr

Ahhh, “Dear Abby“…what ever happened to that in this age of near real-time social media…anyway, here’s one thats worth a chuckle (but not worth the e-mail bandwidth its probably taking up!).

Maybe this is a way to reduce traffic on the Internet, just post funny stuff up on a blog and send friends the links not giant emails.  W

*******************************

Dear Abby:

I have never written to you before, but I really need your advice. I have suspected for some time now that my wife has been cheating on me.  The usual signs; phone rings but if I answer, the caller hangs up.  My wife has been going but with ‘the girls’ a lot recently — although when I ask their names, she always says, “just some friends from work, you don’t know them.” I always try to stay awake to look out for her coming home, but I usually fall asleep.  Anyway, I have never approached the subject with my wife.  I think deep down I just did not want to know the truth, but last night she went out again and I decided to check on her finally. Around midnight, I decided to hide in the garage behind my golf clubs so I could get a good view of the whole street when she arrived home from a night out with ‘the girls.’  When she got out of the car she was buttoning up her blouse, which was open, and she took her panties out of her purse and slipped them on.  It was at that moment, crouching behind my golf clubs, that I noticed a hairline crack where the grip meets the graphite shaft on my 3-wood.  Is this something I can or should try to fix myself, or should I take it back to the pro-shop where I bought it and try to get a refund?

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[11/11/2008, 05:36]

Saint Lawrence Red from Thousand Islands Winery

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I hate sweet reds. Let me say that again so there's no mistaking it...I hate sweet reds.

However, this year, at the Desmond, I found something special - a sweet red I could drink. I thought it was actually drinkable. I thought it was really quite great.

The wine was Thousand Islands Winery Saint Lawrence Red. Saint Lawrence Red is a blend of carefully selected French Hybrid grapes. Great for burgers or chili, great for turkey for those who don't like dry reds, this was an excellent wine. Dark fruit. Solid alcohol. Very, very nice.

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The Thousand Islands Winery is located in Jefferson County, New York. It is the most northern winery in New York State. The winery is located on a farm that was built in 1836. The farm was later owned and operated by Captain Massey and his wife Ida in the 1930's. Captain Massey was a famous Riverboat Captain. He owned a huge Great Lake Vessel that he eventually sold to the Department of Defence for the war effort during World War II.

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Steve and Erika Conaway purchased the Farm in December 2002. Upon Steve's retirement from the military, they decided to create a winery in Alexandria Bay, NY.

Congrats to winery owner Steve Conaway and all the folks at Thousand Islands Winery.
[11/03/2008, 14:30]

Deliciously Different Ribolla Gialla

WRibolla Gialla is one of those varieties that most people have never heard of, never mind tasted.

It's been grown in the Friuli region of Italy since the 13th century, and experts believe that it is related to the red wine grape Schioppettino. Ribolla Gialla isn't grown in very many places in Europe, and it's grown in even fewer places here in the US.

You can count the US vineyards where Ribolla Gialla is planted on the index finger of one hand. Only one vineyard grows Ribolla Gialla and it's Vare Vineyards in the Napa Valley. George and Elsa Vare fell in love with Northern Italian and Slovenian grapes and wine and decided to dedicate their winemaking efforts to seeing how the varieties would fare over on this side of the world. In addition to Ribolla Gialla the Vares grow Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Tocai Friulano, and Sauvignon Blanc. They produce limited quantities of wine from small yields, and bottle it exclusively in 500ml and 1.5L bottles. And the wine is good--good enough that the famous French Laundry bought nearly all of their 2004 vintage for sale in the restaurant.

The 2005 Ribolla Gialla is sold out at the winery--but you can still get your hands on some of it if you are interested in trying it from Wine Q. (sample; $24.99/500ml, WineQ) This good QPR wine was deliciously different. When it was cold from the fridge I could have sworn it was very fresh Fino Sherry because of its dry nutty and citrus aromas and flavors. As it warmed up in the glass, however, the wine became heavier in the mouth, more acidic, and full of lemon oil aromas and flavors. There was a sensation of creaminess as well, which made it reminiscent of tangy lemon curd. This wine is made for shellfish and fish dishes, although it would also be a great match for appetizers or tapas.

Don't be afraid to try a new variety if you get the chance. You could be in for a deliciously different surprise.
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[12/09/2008, 15:48]

Grilled Lamb Leg with Mediterranean Seasoning

Lamb is one of my favorite things to eat. As wonderful as racks and chops are they?re a little pricey, so I pretty much stick to making butterflied boneless legs. Here?s my usual method.

Ingredients:
1 boneless leg of lamb, 4-5 lbs.
extra-virgin olive oil
salt (Kosher, sea salt, or equivalent)
freshly-ground black pepper
ground cumin seed
fresh garlic, chopped fine
dried oregano (preferably Turkish)

Method:
Start by taking the net off of the boneless leg. Place a large cutting board on a sturdy surface, and roll the meat out as flat as possible on it. With a large hammer (I use an Estwing three-pound sledge), wham the lamb relentlessly until it is of a more or less uniform thickness, about 1.5" - 2".

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Using a sharp knife, cut the meat into two similarly-sized pieces. Trim off as much fat and silvery membrane as possible.

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Massage olive oil into both sides of the meat, then season both sides to taste with high-quality salt and fresh-ground pepper, then liberally with the powdered cumin.

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Chop a big handful of fresh garlic cloves (or alternatively, buy a jar of minced garlic), then evenly distribute the chopped garlic in little plops on the meat.

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Massage it in well, then repeat the process on the other side. When the garlic and spices are well rubbed in and the meat is a consistent color, sprinkle both sides with plenty of dried oregano (you DO buy your spice in bulk, don?t you?).

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Tightly wrap in plastic wrap, and set aside in a refrigerator for at least four hours, preferably longer. [At this point, I usually put half of the meat in a freezer bag and freeze for later.]

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When you?re ready to cook your lamb, let it come up to room temperature while your grill preheats. When the grill is ready, cook the lamb over direct high heat for five minutes per side, turning once. Remove meat from grill and let rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing it into serving strips, much as you would a flank steak.

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This dish pairs well with many sides ? rice, potatoes, green beans, and various Indian dishes among them. As for wine, try a Grenache, Malbec or, of course, a nice big Cab.
[01/05/2009, 20:41]

Rosenblum Late Harvest Zinfandel--Rosie Rabbit Vineyard--2003 wine review by (PB)

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Zinfandel a desert wine? If it's from the masters of the zen of the zinfandel grape--you betcha!

Dark black cherry pigmentation with raisin, currant, black cherry, coconut and prunes--and that's just in the bouquet.

Palate--rich, sweetness of each of the fruits mentioned above but all in wonderful harmony. This was a surprise.

I had only one other late harvest Zin (fromTemecula, Ca.) and it was not appealing.
Of the Rosenbluml I wrote in my journal, "Delicious! Delicious! It will run you around $24 for 375ml but I'd have to say it was, uh--delicious--so raise a glass!
[11/19/2008, 20:36]

The Globalization of Wine

Ed Schwartz (napavalleyregister.com) writes:

There is a lot of talk these days about the globalization of wine. Some wine people are up all night tossing and turning, worried about that sometime in the distant future, all wines will taste