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Another Thanksgiving day is quickly upon us. Below is a re-post by (NW) that is helpful as you navigate the vast choices upon you for this festive day of food and reflection.
With all the gloom and doom in the news one might think there isn't much for which to be thankful. That couldn't be further from the truth. My nation and the indeed the world have been through challenging times; even despairing times and yet, acknowledged or not, understood or not, we manage--by God's grace to come out on the other side smelling like a rose (or a Sauternes if you prefer.)
We of the WCB hope that whatever country you are in, (I know Thanksgiving Day is uniquely American) whatever your situation, you will be able to raise a glass with a thankful heart to the God who is there. (PB)
(NW) writes--
Thanksgiving day meals, whether traditional or uniquely creative, offer a terrific opportunity to showcase the marriage of wine and food. A lot of people fret over the wine pairings because there's a lot of time and money invested in the meal. Let me suggest that the pairings don't need to be exacting and a wide variety of wines will suffice.
Some general categories of wine tend to be very good pairings for Thanksgiving. This is partly due to that fact that most meals have a number of dishes and a wide variety for flavors. Wines that do well in this situation are wines that naturally accompany food, both red and white. The red wines that are often viewed as traditional Thanksgiving meal accompaniments include Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel.
Cabernet Sauvignon is a great way to enhance the meal. Is it too red- meaning too full-bodied and powerful? I say no. Cabernet Sauvignon does well with meats, even poultry, especially when accompanied by sauces, gravy, and starches. To refine this selection, try a Cab with a little bit of age on it. The age will likely have mellowed the wine's tannins and softened its edges.
Pinot Noir can be a stunning accompaniment to a Thanksgiving meal! It's really an amazing varietal that has the capability of total success and total failure. Therefore, it's the riskiest choice. For example, I paired a highly regarded Oregon Pinot Noir with the meal two years ago, but it didn't work at all. It was an amazing wine, for sure, but too exotic and smokey. It just didn't work. If you know you've got a good one, then go for it. Otherwise, be careful because Pinot Noir is the most unpredictable varietal.
Zinfandel is often considered a perfect pairing for Thanksgiving. After all, it's the most American grape. Stick with a traditional Zinfandel if you're going this route. Some of the newer single vineyard bottlings are highly ripe, alcoholic, and overpowering. They won't work well. Make sure you are serving a traditional, balanced wine. A good wine merchant can help you find the right wine. For example, Ridge produces Zinfandel blends that are very elegant and balanced.
On the other side of the spectrum, if you're looking for white wine, consider Riesling, Chardonnay, or Chenin Blanc. Riesling can be an amazing food wine, but you'll have to stick with the dry versions. These dry Rieslings are produced the world over, but if you're shopping in the German aisle look for kabinett or spatlese bottlings.
Chardonnay can be a nice choice, especially if you're unsure of your guests' preferences. Because Chardonnay comes in so many forms, look for a wine that has the reputation of ripe tropical fruit and enough acidity for food.
Chenin Blanc could deliver a nice pairing if you're looking for something on the lighter side. It can be very crisp, so get the help of a good wine merchant if you'd like to find one with a little more body.
Obviously, you can find success with a number of wines and, therefore, have some flexibility. In fact, not only do you have some flexibility in wine selections, you have an opportunity to present multiple wines. I always recommend this as a way to satisfy different palates and make the meal more festive. Multiple pairings give people the chance to figure out what they like and go back for more of the same. If you have the means, I recommend placing two glasses at each place setting- either one red and one white or two red glasses.
Also, when considering multiple pairings, use finger food and appetizers as a way to offer up other wine options. Before the meal, consider opening a sparkling wine or use this as a chance to offer a white wine if you're only offering reds with the meal. Rose can also be a nice pairing for appetizers. And don't forget about dessert wines. For example, this year we are having three small dessert courses. With the first two, we'll have a dessert wine and with the last one we'll have coffee.
Wine can enhance a Thanksgiving meal in many different ways. Realize that you have many options and don't fret over exacting your wine pairings. With all the flavors and various dishes, a number of different wines will work. Just enjoy making wine a part of the festivities. Raise a glass!
It’s pretty easy to call a wine sweet: it has a perceptible level of residual sugar in it (five grams of residual sugar is often considered the threshold of perception). Sweet wines generally start at about 45 grams of residual sugar (RS). Some wines, such as Tokay, have require a minimum level 60 grams of RS and rate wines by sweetness with six puttonyos being instant diabetes.
What’s the opposite of sweet? Dry. All the discernible sugar has been converted to alcohol during the fermentation process. Tricky since you might think the opposite of dry is wet and, well, all wine is wet. Dry doesn’t have to do with high tannins, which might make you go “chomp, chomp” and think “OMG, my mouth is drying out! I need water!” It’s just close to zero grams of residual sugar.
And there’s a middle ground of “off-dry,” or slightly sweet. Silly term, I agree (what is it, moist?). Slightly sweeter than that can be called medium dry. If you want to get all wonky geeky, off-dry might be five to fifteen grams of RS and medium dry, from fifteen to forty. Some countries and/or regions are so wonky geeky that they have specific terms and laws for these levels.
Oddly enough, a wine with a lower amount of residual sugar can sometimes taste sweeter than one with a slightly higher amount; it’s often a question of balance with acidity and one category that can be hard to discern in this regard is Champagne, which also as carbon dioxide zooming at your palate as well.
I bring this up because it came up in the comments of this recent posting about “light” as a wine style. And it comes up regularly in my NYU class. If you want to see sweet and dry in action, try tasting these two Leitz wines or a Northern Rhone syrah against a ripe, sweet version of the same grape from somewhere in the New World (but not all are ripe and sweet).
I went to South Africa to learn about South African wine, and the primary way for me to do that is to taste. So taste I did -- probably more than 500 wines by the end of the week -- spending two full days going from booth to booth at the Cape Wine 2008 expo trying to taste a wide cross section of South African wine while at the same time making sure to hit some of the producers I knew were among South Africa's best.
The end result? Scores for more than 350 wines, and a very rapid education indeed. I got a sense of which varietals seemed to shine (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux Blends, and some Syrahs) and which were struggling to find proper expression (Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Merlot, among others). I also began to get a sense of the various wine growing regions and the range of styles that winemakers were using.
I've provided my detailed conclusions in a previous post, which I encourage you to read if you haven't followed the entire series of my posts from South Africa. But to summarize, South Africa falls somewhere between up-and-coming and world-class. There are some excellent wines being made in the country (along with a lot of just mediocre stuff), but few wines that I found to be knock-my-socks-off good.
Having said that, however, South Africa seems to me to be one of the major sources of wine values left on the planet. As you can see by some of the prices with my notes below, there are some tremendous wines to be had in the $20-30 price range, at a level of quality that would result in prices at least twice that high were the wines from Napa, for instance.
In addition to my usual lineup of scores, I have included tasting notes for some of the wines that I found most interesting or compelling, and provided links to purchase some of my favorites. Many of these wines are sadly not yet imported into the United States, or imported very selectively, so I apologize in advance for any you may get excited about only to find that they are not available to you.
Without further ado, here are my scores and tasting notes for the more than 350 wines I tasted at the Cape Wine 2008 event, which it took me more than a month to write up here. Please note that the price ranges are rough guidelines provided by the producers, not the actual range of pricing for a given wine.
White Wines
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2007 Sequillo Cellars White Blend. Light gold in the glass, this unusual blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne has a surprising nose of white peaches, star fruit, and greenish tropical fruit aromas that are tough to pin down. In the mouth the wine is nothing short of gorgeous. Lovely, silky texture carries flavors of peaches and honeysuckle that are balanced perfectly with a mineral acidity so that the whole wine resonates through a long finish that leaves a simple, lowercase, "wow" at the end of my scribbled notes from the day. $35. Where to buy?
2007 Ken Forrester Wines "T Noble Late Harvest" Chenin Blanc. Amber gold in the glass, this wine has an explosive nose of apricots and honey that you can smell from three feet away. On the tongue it is liquid satin gold, draping itself like a discarded negligee over the palate and oozing flavors of orange blossom, apricots and honey. Oozing might not be the right word, however, as this wine has amazing acidity that puckers the cheeks and juices the tastebuds until they cry out for more. Incredibly limited production means that this is made in quantities approaching 50 cases each year. $55. Where to buy?
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2007 Kleinood "Tamboerskloof" Viognier. Pale gold in the glass, this wine has a very mineral nose of peaches, gold cream and wet granite aromas. In the mouth it is bright and luscious with great acidity and flavors of white peaches crushed minerals and hints of white flowers and citrus zest. Delicious and well balanced with none of the clunky characteristics that are so often found in New World Viognier. $5-7.
2008 Graham Beck Wines "Gamekeeper's Reserve" Chenin Blanc. Pale gold in the glass this wine has a nose of freshly cut pears and apples. In the mouth it is bright and lean with flavors of pears, caramel apples, and hints of cinnamon. Remarkable and delicious. $30-50.
2007 Ataraxia Wines Chardonnay. Light green-gold in the glass, this wine has a pungent nose of warm leather and cold cream aromas. In the mouth it is crystalline with acidity which serves up mouth puckering flavors of lemon curd, lemon zest and grapefruit juice -- a concoction of refreshing, delicious flavors that swirls through a long finish. Outstanding. $38. Where to buy?
2007 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Anais" Chardonnay. Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of cold cream and lemon custard, making my mouth water before I even taste it. On the palate it is firm and weighty, smooth and bright with lemon curd, cold cream, and a strong mineral quality that is as surprising as it is delicious. $30. Where to buy?
2007 Sadie Family Wines "Palladius" White Blend. Light gold in color, this wine has a nose of wet granite, clover honey, and lemon blossom scents. In the mouth it is angular and explosively bright with juicy lemon-flavored acidity and lean mineral qualities that mellow into cold cream and soft texture as the wine finishes lovely and long. $40. Where to buy?
2007 Ken Forrester Wines "The FMC" Chenin Blanc. Light gold in color, this wine has a gorgeous nose of white flowers, honey, and fresh, ripe pear aromas. In the mouth it is crisp and just slightly off-dry, with lightly sweet flavors of poached pear and flowers that linger in a long, long finish. Likely a beautiful cheese wine. $49. Where to buy?
2007 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Sauvignon Blanc. $??. 2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvignon Blanc. $30. Where to buy? 2007 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14. Where to buy?
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2006 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay. $50 or more 2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Steen op Hout" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2006 Simonsig Wine Estate "Kaapse Vonkel" Pinot Noir. $14-30 2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Chenin Blanc. $7-14 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "The Weir" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Painted Wolf Wines "Castle View" Viognier. $30-50 2007 La Motte Chardonnay. $14-30 2006 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bateleur" Chardonnay. $50 or more 2008 Graham Beck Wines "Pheasants Run" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2003 Graham Beck Wines "Cuvee Clive Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $?? 2005 Springfield Estate "Wild Yeast" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Vergelegen "Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 NV Quando Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay. $22 2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Viognier. $14-30 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Bukettraube. $?? 2006 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Beyerskloof Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2007 Hartenberg Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2007 Hartenberg Estate Weisser Riesling. $7-14 2007 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock White Blend" Chenin Blanc. $30-50 2004 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvingon Blanc. $?? 2005 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvingon Blanc. $?? 2007 L'Avenir Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 L'Avenir Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Ken Forrester Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 2005 Mulderbosch Vineyards Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 Simonsig Wine Estate "Sunbird" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Green Duck - The Dutchess" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2008 Painted Wolf Wines White Blend. $?? 2008 La Motte "Pierneef" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Limestone Hill" Chardonnay. $14-30 2005 De Wetshof Estate "D'Honneur" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Graham Beck Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2005 Graham Beck Wines "Brut Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $?? NV Graham Beck Wines "Bliss Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine". $?? 2005 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Springfield Estate "Special Cuvee" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Steenberg Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Barton Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2007 Uva Mira Vineyards "Single Vineyard" Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Vergelegen Semillon. $30-50 2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $7-14 2008 Waterford Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $20 2007 Lammershoek Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette Blanc" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 NV Iona Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Crocodile's Lair / Kaaimansgat" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Chenin Blanc. $?? 2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Elanor" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Ataraxia Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Gewurztraminer. $14-30 2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Land of Hope" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2006 Cape Point Vineyards Semillon. $14-30 2008 Cape Point Vineyards "Stonehaven" Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $5-7 2007 Jordan Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 Jordan Winery "Nine Yards" Chardonnay. $30-50
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 2007 Simonsig Wine Estate Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Simonsig Wine Estate Chenin Blanc. $7-14 NV Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Brut Methode Cap Classique" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Lesca" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Springfield Estate "Life From Stone" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Klein Constantia Estate "Rhine Riesling" Riesling. $14-30 2007 Steenberg Vineyards Semillon. $30-50 2006 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $?? 2006 Ses'fikile Wines "Rain Song" Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Uva Mira Vineyards "Cellar Selection" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 M'hudi Sauvignon Blanc. $16 2007 Meerlust Estate Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Dombeya Wines Chardonnay. $7-14 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Chardonnay. $7-14 2007 Fairview Viognier. $?? 2008 Waterford Estate "Pecan Stream" Chenin Blanc. $12 2007 Waterford Estate Chardonnay. $24 2005 Bon Cap Organic Wines "MCC" Chardonnay. $7-14 2007 Jason's Hill Private Cellar Viognier. $5 2007 Iona Vineyards Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Blanc de Mer" Weisser Riesling. $7-14 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Sans Barrique" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Walker Bay" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Semillon. $?? 2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Vinum" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 The Winery of Good Hope" Radford Dale" Viognier. $?? 2008 L'Avenir Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Jordan Winery Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Jordan Winery Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bon Vallon" Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 Scali Chenin Blanc. $24 2008 Dombeya Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Sauvignon Blanc. $5 NV Quando Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc. $5-7
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 RAKA Chenin Blanc. $??
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 7.5 AND 8 2008 Teddy Hall Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 7.75 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Chardonnay. $5 7.75 2008 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 7.75
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE UNDER 7.5 2008 Springfield Estate "Firefinch" Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2008 Barton Vineyards White Blend. $?? 2008 Bon Cap Organic Wines Viognier. $7-14 2008 RAKA Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2005 Wedderwill Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
Pink Wines
PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2008 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Tortoise Hill" Pinotage Rosé. $7-14 Where to buy?
2006 Graham Beck Wines Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir). Pale rose pink in the glass with medium bubbles, this wine has a nose of bright citrus and warm brioche aromas. In the mouth it has a very fine mousse foam with beautiful flavors of rosehips, melon, and floral notes that creep in towards the back of the throat. Delicious. $20. Where to buy?
PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2008 Beyerskloof Pinotage Rosé. Pale salmon in color, this wine has a nose of wet leaves, rosehips, and orange peel aromas. In the mouth it is tangy and lively with acidity that wraps around flavors of orange peel, raspberry, and rosehips. Crisp, clean, and delightful, this wine makes me wonder if maybe the destiny of Pinotage is to make pink wines. $10. Where to buy?
PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2008 Graham Beck Wines Malbec Rosé. $7-14 2008 Golden Kaan Limited Pinotage Rosé. $7-14
PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2008 Mulderbosch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. $14-30
PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Shiraz Rosé. $5
PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 RAKA Rosé. $7-14 2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Shiraz Rosé. $14-30
Red Wines
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2005 Sequillo Cellars Red Blend. Inky garnet in color, this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre has a beautiful dark nose of mulberry, earth, and cassis aromas. In the mouth it is the wine equivalent of Valentino in his prime -- utterly seductive, dark, and just exotic enough to be mysterious. Rich, textured, complex flavors of cassis, mulberry, and other dark fruits, juicy with great acidity, linger into a long finish where the faintest hint of tannins emerge, but only for those paying close attention. And it's hard to pay attention when all this wine makes you want to do is swallow, swallow, and swallow some more. $35. Where to buy?
2006 Sadie Family Wines "Columella" Red Rhone Blend. Dark ruby in the glass, this blend of Syrah and Mourvedre has a nose of bright cassis, blackberry, and grape aromas. In the mouth it is...there's no other way to put it....rockin' with flavor: cassis, blackberry, black cherry, and other rich ripe dark fruits swirl in a concoction that is shot through with a dry minerality and deep complex texture that evokes some of the best wines of the Northern Rhone. If I am reading my sloppy tasting note correctly, I believe the finish was described in the moment as "hot damn." $85. Where to buy?
RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2007 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Nature in Concert" Pinot Noir $7-14 Medium garnet in the glass, this wine has a bright nose of pomegranate and cranberry aromas with hints of herbs. In the mouth it is juicy and bright with great acidity that carries flavors of cranberry, cherry, and a woody cedar note that carries through the very long finish. Tasty. $??
2005 Stellekaya Winery "Orion" Cabernet Sauvignon. Intense, inky ruby in color, this wine has an intruiging nose of piney, savory, almost chewy aromas that include black pepper, dirt, and a hint of green bell pepper. On the palate the wine is classic cherry, cedar, and pipe tobacco flavors, with a nice balance and hints of espresso on the moderate finish. Complex, nuanced, and yummy. $7-14.
2003 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. Poured out of a 1.5 liter bottle, this wine is bright medium ruby colored in the glass, with aromas of cedar, cherry, and fresh pine. In the mouth it is beautifully textured, perfectly balanced and juicy with flavors of cherry, sandalwood, plum, and hints of sawdust among the light tannins that emerge as the wine finishes long and lovely. $25. Where to buy?
2005 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette" Shiraz. Medium garnet in color, this wine has a bright, fruity nose of pure cassis. In the mouth it is beatifully dry and smooth with deep earth, leather, and cassis flavors tinged by herbs. The finish is long, lean and resonant. $21. Where to buy?
2004 Kanonkop Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium garnet in color, this wine has a nose of cherry, tobacco and espresso aromas. In the mouth it offers primary flavors of espresso, cherry, and tobacco, knt together with fine grained tannins and nice acidity. The wine has an elegance that is exemplified by its long finish. $25.
2005 Kanonkop Wine Estate "Paul Sauer" Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet in color, this wine has a rich nose of cedar and black cherry aromas. On the tongue it is a velvet caress of black cherry, earth and tobacco flavors. The tannnins are soft and beautifully structured, balanced perfectly with the wines acidity and weight. The overall quality of this wine that sticks in the mind is its smoothness. Outstanding. $40. Where to buy?
2006 Cederberg Private Cellars Shiraz. Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine has a luscious nose of blackberry fruit with a spicy, meaty undertone that leans the aromas distinctly towards the savory end of the spectrum. In the mouth it is bright and round and full of cassis and blackberry flavors with a hint of leather on the finish. Delicious. $25. Where to buy?
2006 L'Avenir" Grand Vin" Pinotage. Inky garnet in color, this wine has a very pretty nose of floral and ripe plum aromas. In the mouth it offers rich flavors of cherry, cocoa powder, raspberry and cranberry all swirling around on silk textures. Faint tannins, nice acidit, and a long beautiful finish round out one of the best Pinotages I have ever had. $30-50.
2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale" Shiraz. $30-50. 2007 Mischa Estate "Not yet named" Bordeaux Blend. $N/A 2004 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Shiraz. $50. Where to buy? 2006 Stark-Condé "Three Pines" Shiraz. $35.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2006 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "Theta" Shiraz. $50 2005 Kleinood (Tamboerskloof Syrah/Viognier) Shiraz. $7-14 2006 Stark-Condé "Stellenbosch" Cabernet Sauvignon. $25 2006 Stellekaya Winery Shiraz. $7-14 2005 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Grand Classique" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Gravel Quarr" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2003 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Les Pleurs" Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Painted Wolf Wines "Borg Family" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines "Cape Blend" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Pinotage. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Shiraz. $?? 2004 Morgenster Estate Merlot. $?? 2004 Morgenster Estate "Lourens River Valley" Merlot. $?? 2006 Morgenster Estate "Tosca" Sangiovese. $?? 2002 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2003 Vergelegen "Red" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2004 Vergelegen "V" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2004 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2005 Dombeya Wines "Samara" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Mvemve Raats "De Compostella" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2007 Waboomsrivier Wine Cellar Pinotage. $5 2007 Iona Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Kanonkop Wine Estate Pinotage. $14-30 2006 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Ameena" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Cabernet Sauvignon. $?? 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Teen Die Hoog - Cape Winemakers Guild" Shiraz. $?? 2004 Beyerskloof "Field Blend" Cape Blend. $?? 2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Stork" Shiraz. $?? 2006 Ataraxia Wines "Serenity" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Luddite Wines Shiraz. $?? 2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock Red Blend" Shiraz. $30-50 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale Gravity" Bordeaux Blend. $50 or more 2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Scarborough" Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7 2006 L'Avenir Pinotage. $14-30 2005 Ken Forrester Wines "The Gypsy" Shiraz. $30-50 2004 Jordan Winery "Cobblers Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
Not something you read about much are the wines of Laithwaites, despite being one of the largest wine retailers in the UK. They offer wines under the laithwaites brand, The Sunday Times Wine Club, Direct Wines and the Nectar Wine Club amongst others. They delivered a mammoth 56 million bottles of wine across the UK during the last 12 months.
A little tasting a few weeks back (I'm falling behind with my note writing!), in the high Victorian Gothic splendours of Oxford Town Hall (such a welcome change from having to trundle all the way to the metropolis), offered a just under 30 wines from the companies range.
A vast majority of the wines offered are own label - just a smattering from well known names (Cloudy Bay, Royal Tokaji, Hunters for example) appear on their list. The company owns a Chateau in Bordeaux where many staff are sent to learn the intercacies of wine making. Visiting a vineyard and winery is an amazing experience and really brings home the connection between land and final product.
Shame then that the Laithwaite Sauvignon Blanc (£7.89) from this estate, Chateau La Clarière was one of the worst wines available at the tasting. Perhaps they should send me a bottle to try for the girls running the tasting were hugely enthused by it and their experiences of visiting the estate, but my notes read slightly over extracted, harsh nose, sharp acidic finish.
But other drinks were more palatable:
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Alessandro Gallici Prosecco Brut, NV, Vino Spumante, Italy. Price: £8.89 [More: Adegga / Snooth] Gentle nose, vibrant fizz (like you were expecting something else?), frothy, fun. Tranch of peachy, appley, fruit. Good price. Alcohol 11.5%.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Royal Tokaji Dry Furmint, 2006, Hungary. Price: £10.69 [More: Adegga / Snooth] An unusual wine with which to tempt the masses; I imagine trying is the best way to sell this (there was a wine club tasting, with the same wines as offered to me occurring simultaneously in an adjacent room) . No nose but an interesting array of flavours on the palate - clean, minerally, citrus, slightly honeyed, apricoty.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Rocky Rombola Rosé, 2008, New South Wales, Australia Price: £6.29 [More: Adegga / Snooth] Delicious looking colour, vibrant. Very Aussie in style, ripe fruit, full, good price. A freshness and vibrancy (that were lacking in a couple of other rosés at the tasting). Along with the fruitiness there is a nice, sharp berry edge on the finish. Alcohol 13%. £6.29.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Gran Valle de Niebla Pinot Noir, 2007, Rapel, Chile Price: £9.15 [More on Adegga / Snooth] From the reliable Cono Sur stable. Easy drinking, soft, but over-priced. Alcohol 13.5%.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Stony Creek Tarrango Shiraz, 2006, Big Rivers, Fleurieu & Gundagai, Australia Price: £7.39 [More on Adegga / Snooth] An interesting blend (70% Tarrango, 30% Shiraz) Light and fruity almost pinot in style. Tarrango on the nose, Syrah on the finish. Offers a juicy softness. Alcohol 13%. £7.39.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Tenca Tree Shiraz , 2007, Central Valley, Chile Price: £6.29 [More on Adegga / Snooth] Deep,almost opaque in colour. Good blackberry spiced nose and decent spicy finish. Commercial,soft but nice expression. Alcohol 13%.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: San Floriano Ripasso, 2005, Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Italy Price: £11.39 [More on Adegga / Snooth] The best red of the tasting - lovely palate, and rich, expressive nose. Plenty of tannins, concentration and ripe, stewed fruit. Good length. Alcohol 13.5%.
Review0.3 Cider Tasting Note: Cidre Artisanal Le Brun Brut, NV, Cidre de Bretagne, France Price: £4.29 Not really a cider fan but this is rather nice - not 'dirty; as some ciders can be on the nose, not to alcoholic either (which is the normal region I dislike cider). Alcohol 5.5%. Sweetish fruit, dry finish £4.29.
Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: Miranda Golden Botrytis, NV, Riverina, Australia Price: £11.15 half bottle [More: Adegga / Snooth] A mix of Riverina Semillon and King Valley Riesling. Fresh, treacle and orange syrup nose. Rich, full, sweet, mouth-filling, ripe and good complexity for the price. Alcohol 10%.
Many years ago I was interviewed for a job at Laithwaites essentially writing the (prodigiously large and frequent) mailing material; much to their loss I didn't get the job!
Leave it to a baby boomer to latch onto this millennial wine label concept. Forgive me; the label goes with the new table we just bought from Pier 1 Imports, that place where the millennial generation now shops. The proverbial "we" refers to the writer, namely me, and my civil union partner of nearly 20 years, or whatever is allowed to be said given we do not fall into the category of "one man and one woman".
Geode is a wine concept. It is a design. It is targeted marketing. This is its first vintage. It over-delivers. That's a good thing. Quick, before they sell it off to a larger company keen on watering it down and milking the label as a cash cow, buy it and drink up.
If they are going to wing these concepts out at us, then we need to know when to buy and when to pass. We need to be as fickle about our preferences as they are about their focus group results. My experience is this type of concept is best when it starts out. They can evolve into something even better, but rarely. Again I say, buy now and drink up. Just don't get married to it. Play the field. Be gay with California wine - don't get married.
White Rocket Wine Company has done a great job with Geode Santa Barbara Chardonnay 2006. Chardonnay is the proverbial "dead horse" in many ways these days, so it takes a strong concept, product and price to make hay. True to form as a Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, this newbie takes on hints of Puligny-Montrachet, a remarkable feat for a sub-$15 wine, Geode is packed with oodles of honeyed botrytis overtones and delicious tropical fruit flavors. The honey is in the head space and the pineapple, mango and lemon-lime grace the palate in a sophisticated way. The performance is very well rounded, creamy on the palate, yet the finish is crisp dry.
Veteran wine maker Melissa Bates is credited with this stellar value laden effort. She reportedly gave this wine an average of 8 months in oak, 3/4 French, 1/4 new.
Price: $14 (Nashville). Closure: real cork. Alcohol content: 13.5%.
They maybe should start calling Napa Chardonnay simply, "a glass of white Napa". Chardonnay seems so generic, especially in the days of now, when "mom-and-pop" wineries are a romantic thing of the almost-past. Last year William Hill Estate changed hands, leaving the portfolio of Jim Beam's peeps and joining the ranks of E&J Gallo's decendents' peeps. But this is Napa juice, so I say, call it "a glass of white Napa". It sounds more distinguished than, say, a glass of Gallo's William Hill Napa Chardonnay.
By the way, do you know how to tell right away if that winery you're researching is owned by one of the large "wine umbrella portfolio management groups", without googling it? Here's a hint: If they ask you when you're born, before you check out their homepage, tell them you're born on January 1st 1901. And rest assured, you're under a big umbrella.
Okay, now that we've established that Gallo bought a Napa property with lots of history and genuine character, let's give them credit for injecting the house with efficiency without sacrificing quality. Under Gallo's umbrella, William Hill can compete better in the reality known as wine 2.0, the modern wine marketing landscape. As part of an entire "aisle" of offerings, this label can wield more muscle than it could stand-alone. We get better deals as a result. When they don't water it down, we stand to benefit by such an arrangement.
Reportedly, the fruit for William Hill Napa Chardonnay 2005 is from Carneros and Atlas Peak. Malolactic fermentation and oak aging inject the wine with richness, layered atop the lean acidic structure begotten from the cool climate vineyards. The oak influence is noticeable, reinforcing the tropical mango and perfumed lemon aromas and flavors. Here is a successful baby Chassagne-Montrachet, if you dare call it that. I call it a darn good glass of "white Napa".
Price: $13 (Nashville, on sale). Closure: Real cork. Alcohol content: 13.9%.
Beautifully conceptual these wines, both of them. This is what Chardonnay is all about, and it's amazing how affordable they are.
They said it couldn?t be done. Yet it is being done. California is emerging from the excesses of the previous decades (who isn?t) and presenting a leaner, meaner attitude in their wines. By lean and mean I mean acidity and a glorious lack of residual sugar. Perhaps Pilates is good for all types of fat.
Just today I had two crisp, mineraly and very dry white wines from California and they were as good examples of the genre as you?ll find anywhere.
Facing down a half dozen pristine oysters the 2006 Brander Sauvignon Blanc Natural from Santa Ynez was master of its domaine. It was clean and fresh as you could want, yet the Brander was not that simple cat pee punch produced in New Zealand as on top of that zest was a lovely touch of honeydew melon and ripe pears. Brander Natural is a rare example of a new world sauvignon blanc that can actually challenge Sancerre or Pouilly Fume for both guts and glory.
More difficult to find, but well worth the search is the 2007 Pey- Marin, The Shell Mound, Riesling from chilly Marin County. Here?s a high strung dry riesling that is not a bad copy of Alsace, but an interesting wine in its own right. Like the Brander, on top of all the structure and bite is a deliciously ripe fruitiness that belongs only to California. At only 11.8% alcohol it hits some of those high notes you thought only German riesling could hit.
There used to be a line that could not be crossed in California without wines being branded as thin. Thankfully those days seem to be gone as producers like Pey Marin and Brander produce lean, mean fighting machines such as these.
I hate sweet reds. Let me say that again so there's no mistaking it...I hate sweet reds.
However, this year, at the Desmond, I found something special - a sweet red I could drink. I thought it was actually drinkable. I thought it was really quite great.
The wine was Thousand Islands Winery Saint Lawrence Red. Saint Lawrence Red is a blend of carefully selected French Hybrid grapes. Great for burgers or chili, great for turkey for those who don't like dry reds, this was an excellent wine. Dark fruit. Solid alcohol. Very, very nice.
The Thousand Islands Winery is located in Jefferson County, New York. It is the most northern winery in New York State. The winery is located on a farm that was built in 1836. The farm was later owned and operated by Captain Massey and his wife Ida in the 1930's. Captain Massey was a famous Riverboat Captain. He owned a huge Great Lake Vessel that he eventually sold to the Department of Defence for the war effort during World War II.
Steve and Erika Conaway purchased the Farm in December 2002. Upon Steve's retirement from the military, they decided to create a winery in Alexandria Bay, NY.
Congrats to winery owner Steve Conaway and all the folks at Thousand Islands Winery.
California's Anderson Valley remains one of its least known and most under-appreciated wine regions. In particular I believe it to be under-appreciated for its Pinot Noir, in particular, and in some cases, its Alsatian varieties of wine. I offer a slight caveat to the latter because while Anderson Valley is certainly known for producing wines in the style and varieties of those found in Alsace, France, in my experience they are mixed in quality.
But when winemakers manage to get things right, Anderson Valley can produce some stunning examples of wines that might, in the right circumstances be mistaken for their Alsatian forbears.
Such is the case with the newest release from a little outfit known as Handley Cellars. Perhaps the best adjective to describe Handley Cellars might be "quaint." This small, family-run operation is located in the heart of the Anderson Valley, just up the road a piece from downtown Philo, at the 19th century Holmes Ranch.
U.C Davis trained winemaker and owner Milla Handley has been making wine since 1982. Handley got her start as a winemaker in the Seventies working at Chateau St. Jean and then later at Edmeades winery when she moved her family to Anderson Valley.
These days, with the help of her family and "co-winemaker" Kristen Barnhisel, who joined Handley in 2004, Handley now produces a modest 14,000 cases a year with fruit from the Anderson Valley estate as well as other sources throughout the valley and further afield. The portfolio includes both a number of Alsatian style wines, Pinot Noir,
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