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[11/22/2008, 22:29] Chateau Angelus 1994 Wine Review (NW)

Tasting notes: Currants, tobacco, and smoke on the nose Smooth and polished texture on the palate Finish of mixed berries, cassis, cedar, and tobacco Good friends treated us to a couple of bottles of this wine. It's drinking really well right now and is enjoyable because it's so relaxed and polished. The flavors integrate beautifully, and the texture is nearly perfect. To purchase this wine at auction or from the library collection of a fine wine merchant, expect to pay around $150 per bottle. As one of the Grand Cru Classe wines of St. Emillion, this wine has the reputation of aging quite well. Typically a Merlot-based blend, it has developed a strong reputation and a strong following for decades. Raise a glass! --A Review from The Wine Cask Blog. Creative Commons: Attribution - ShareAlike 2.5 applies

[11/22/2008, 18:56] Thanksgiving Day wine recommendations by (NW)

Another Thanksgiving day is quickly upon us. Below is a re-post by (NW) that is helpful as you navigate the vast choices upon you for this festive day of food and reflection. With all the gloom and doom in the news one might think there isn't much for which to be thankful. That couldn't be further from the truth. My nation and the indeed the world have been through challenging times; even despairing times and yet, acknowledged or not, understood or not, we manage--by God's grace to come out on the other side smelling like a rose (or a Sauternes if you prefer.) We of the WCB hope that whatever country you are in, (I know Thanksgiving Day is uniquely American) whatever your situation, you will be able to raise a glass with a thankful heart to the God who is there. (PB) (NW) writes-- Thanksgiving day meals, whether traditional or uniquely creative, offer a terrific opportunity to showcase the marriage of wine and food. A lot of people fret over the wine pairings because there's a lot of time and money invested in the meal. Let me suggest that the pairings don't need to be exacting and a wide variety of wines will suffice. Some general categories of wine tend to be very good pairings for Thanksgiving. This is partly due to that fact that most meals have a number of dishes and a wide variety for flavors. Wines that do well in this situation are wines that naturally accompany food, both red and white. The red wines that are often viewed as traditional Thanksgiving meal accompaniments include Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Zinfandel. Cabernet Sauvignon is a great way to enhance the meal. Is it too red- meaning too full-bodied and powerful? I say no. Cabernet Sauvignon does well with meats, even poultry, especially when accompanied by sauces, gravy, and starches. To refine this selection, try a Cab with a little bit of age on it. The age will likely have mellowed the wine's tannins and softened its edges. Pinot Noir can be a stunning accompaniment to a Thanksgiving meal! It's really an amazing varietal that has the capability of total success and total failure. Therefore, it's the riskiest choice. For example, I paired a highly regarded Oregon Pinot Noir with the meal two years ago, but it didn't work at all. It was an amazing wine, for sure, but too exotic and smokey. It just didn't work. If you know you've got a good one, then go for it. Otherwise, be careful because Pinot Noir is the most unpredictable varietal. Zinfandel is often considered a perfect pairing for Thanksgiving. After all, it's the most American grape. Stick with a traditional Zinfandel if you're going this route. Some of the newer single vineyard bottlings are highly ripe, alcoholic, and overpowering. They won't work well. Make sure you are serving a traditional, balanced wine. A good wine merchant can help you find the right wine. For example, Ridge produces Zinfandel blends that are very elegant and balanced. On the other side of the spectrum, if you're looking for white wine, consider Riesling, Chardonnay, or Chenin Blanc. Riesling can be an amazing food wine, but you'll have to stick with the dry versions. These dry Rieslings are produced the world over, but if you're shopping in the German aisle look for kabinett or spatlese bottlings. Chardonnay can be a nice choice, especially if you're unsure of your guests' preferences. Because Chardonnay comes in so many forms, look for a wine that has the reputation of ripe tropical fruit and enough acidity for food. Chenin Blanc could deliver a nice pairing if you're looking for something on the lighter side. It can be very crisp, so get the help of a good wine merchant if you'd like to find one with a little more body. Obviously, you can find success with a number of wines and, therefore, have some flexibility. In fact, not only do you have some flexibility in wine selections, you have an opportunity to present multiple wines. I always recommend this as a way to satisfy different palates and make the meal more festive. Multiple pairings give people the chance to figure out what they like and go back for more of the same. If you have the means, I recommend placing two glasses at each place setting- either one red and one white or two red glasses. Also, when considering multiple pairings, use finger food and appetizers as a way to offer up other wine options. Before the meal, consider opening a sparkling wine or use this as a chance to offer a white wine if you're only offering reds with the meal. Rose can also be a nice pairing for appetizers. And don't forget about dessert wines. For example, this year we are having three small dessert courses. With the first two, we'll have a dessert wine and with the last one we'll have coffee. Wine can enhance a Thanksgiving meal in many different ways. Realize that you have many options and don't fret over exacting your wine pairings. With all the flavors and various dishes, a number of different wines will work. Just enjoy making wine a part of the festivities. Raise a glass! --A Review from The Wine Cask Blog. Creative Commons: Attribution - ShareAlike 2.5 applies

[11/19/2008, 20:36] The Globalization of Wine

Ed Schwartz (napavalleyregister.com) writes: There is a lot of talk these days about the globalization of wine. Some wine people are up all night tossing and turning, worried about that sometime in the distant future, all wines will taste^? alike, assuming there could ever be such a thing as a "universal" taste. Globalization of wine sets me off in another direction ? the amazing growth of international commerce in wine in this generation. Not that international wine trade is something new. The Greeks, as in many things, did a wonderful job 2,000 years ago planting vines and spreading wine culture. The Greek trade in wine was surprisingly extensive. There was a system of appellations to ensure the origin of the best wines so that customers of Greek wines knew where the wine came from. Large stores of wine traveled wherever Greek ships traveled ? and that was all over the known world. We even know from ancient records where the best wines came from. So, the Greeks developed the kind of Epicurean consciousness that is now also part of the modern wine mind. I've always believed that this globalization, or internationalization of wine has caused great competition, which is always good for the development of wine and our wine industry. ... One notable example ? the wines of Italy. Not so long ago, most United States wine consumers thought of Italian wines as the rather rough, thin inexpensive wines in straw flasks with the Chianti on the label. Now, what has happened in Italy has been phenomenal and not just in Tuscany. Today, a top level wine merchant will have well over 200 Italian red wines ranging from excellent Falesco wines under $10 to a line of highly regarded wines from Gaja, some of which command prices close to $300 a bottle. Today, fine Italian wines are not restricted to the Northern districts. Excellent wines are being enjoyed from Sicily to Puglia, Campania and points south. Italian grape varietals^? that in the past "got no respect" are now flourishing stars under new and expert hands ? Nero^? d'Avola and Sagrantino are just two examples. » Full Story Tags: melgab, wine, italian, globalisation, wine making, south-africa, South Africa
WorldWine Tags: melgab, wine, italian, globalisation, wine making, south-africa, South Africa,

[11/19/2008, 15:10] San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva 2004, Tuscany, Italy

Its a struggle drinking Chianti without food; insufferable punishment on the taste buds in fact. That sharp, acidic, slightly earthy finish is how the wine is supposed to taste but it's a struggle to consume more than a glass. Rasping if you are subjected to a poor quality bottle. Add food and it's like drinking a different wine. But, I hear the masses yell, that is what Chianti is designed for - drinking with food. It is like a television without an aerial; you can use it but it just doesn't work very well. You know you are missing out on the bigger picture. Two bottles of this rather decent Chianti have been consumed over the last few days. A Sunday roast of beef and Yorkshires was fine. Further complexity was revealed in the flavour but there remained something lacking. What the roast lacked was the sweet acidity of tomatoes to balance. Step forward a superbly thrown together lasagne. Combining mince beef, plenty of fresh parsley, a splash of red and a tin of chopped Italian tomatoes the wine shone like a beacon . The wines refreshing acidity makes it all the more drinkable. (I'm also thinking lamb would have been a better match, over beef, with the wines acidity cutting through the inherent fat beautifully). Review0.3 Wine Tasting Note: San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva, 2004, Tuscany, Italy Stockist: Everywine £257 for 12, Italian Wine Society £15.19 £182.28 for 12 [More on Adegga / Snooth] A richness of dark cherry fruit leads into a twist of acidic bitterness on the finish. Smooth and robust with hints of leather and mixed herbs. but shines with food. Shown to both Slavonian and French oak barrels which adds complexity. 100% Sangiovese. Alcohol 13%. Andrew BarrowScribblings Rating - 90/100 [3.75 out of 5]

[11/19/2008, 09:45] 2006 Encyclopedia Tempranillo

Here's my second look at the new Coppola Encyclopedia wines in the odd-shaped bottles. The 2006 Encyclopedia Tempranillo is from Yecla in Southeast Spain. $14, 13.5% abv. The nose has a little stewed fruit with a touch of herbs, medium tannins, and a black cherry finish. It's a solid but uncomplicated wine that's food friendly in the grand tradition of Spanish wines. The tannins are probably a little strong for Thanksgiving but keep this in mind for stews and braises over the winter months. I thought it was a great burger wine. The screwcap is large, 1⅝" (42mm) across, ample room for printing a quote. (The silver swirl destroys the contrast necessary for legibility! Elementary design concepts!) The bottles are designed to be reused as decanters or containers for olive oil, vinegar, etc. I suppose I should take this opportunity to mention that I've got a new camera. For the past three years almost every photo on this blog has been taken with a Fujifilm FinePix s5000. The Fuji was a great camera and I was able to coax some amazing shots out of it, but for a bridge camera (between standard point-and-shoot and DSLR), I started running into limitations with it regarding low light conditions and chromatic aberration when using macro lenses. I recently upgraded to a Nikon D40, a true digital SLR with the ability to swap out lenses. I normally don't repeat photos, but take this recent shot. Very low light conditions, yet I shot it without a tripod and without any special setup. I just put the camera in full auto and snapped a picture. Due to the lenses, with a DSLR it's very easy to get that low depth of field look. Without going into all the math, it just means that what you want people to pay attention to is in focus and everything else in front of or behind the object is blurry. In the top photo of the wine bottle, the screwcap is in sharp focus but you can barely discern any details about the background other than colors. (This method can be increased or decreased through various methods, but I'm not teaching a photography class here.) Will the Nikon D40 give you outstanding photos? Only if you take a lot of terrible ones first. Like anything else, practice makes perfect. But out of the different cameras I've used throughout the years, this is simultaneously the easiest and, if I want to explore all the different settings and adjustments, the most powerful camera I've owned. If you're interested, check out the review linked above, and if you decide to get one for Christmas, you can purchase it from my Amazon store, where you'll find customer reviews, accessories, and other detailed information.

[11/19/2008, 05:00] JFK Airport's Terminal 5 has Sky-High Ambitions for Wine (Wine Spectator)

Air travelers can enjoy fine dining at several restaurants in new terminal and can even bring wine bottles on board their flights

[11/18/2008, 22:10] When I’m Sixty Four

In 1964 the Beatles released Meet the Beatles in the United States, the first Ford Mustang was produced, Lyndon Johnson defeated Barry Goldwater for President and the grapes for the 1964 Gran Reserva Rioja of Faustino I were harvested. They made 219,500 bottles and I drank one last night. I can?t help but be struck by history when I taste older wines. By the way, I just turned nine a month before they picked these grapes, which means I?m becoming part of history too. To experience these wines is to touch a piece of history as no one makes wines in the same way anymore. Too much science has entered both the winery and vineyard and that?s a good thing. The great thing about an old Rioja Grand Reserva is that they were only produced from the best vintages and from the best wines, which means that you won?t find the faults you often see in older wines from lesser years and pedigrees. A wine like this lets you reach out to winemakers of the past and be touched by the way they thought. The 64 Faustino Gran Reserva shows not a trace of cassis, raspberries, new oak or alcohol. Part of that is its age, but I?m willing to bet it never showed any of those things. Years in barrels (old) and bottle before release assured there was no baby fat on this wine when it was deemed ready for sale. The winery did the maturing for you. The most striking thing about such wines are the aromatics. It is almost (almost) anti-climatic to taste them. The other is the finish, which is long and haunting. They are wines that invite you to think. Think about not only the way they taste and smell, but about the people and times in which they were born. There is no such thing as great young wine. Very good, very enjoyable ones yes, but great ones no. Young wines only have the potential to be great. Drinking young wine all the time deadens the palate making it only sensitive to power and fruit. In today?s hedonistic market driven by immediate pleasures most of the greatest wines are consumed before they actually become great. It?s a terrible waste as today?s wines could be the best ever made and, in addition, never have there been so many wonderful wines designed to be drunk young. More often then not, these ?lesser? wines are more pleasurable to drink in their youth than more distinguished and pricy bottles. For every wine there is a season, connoisseurs should be able to pick the proper season to drink wines made to age. Now we give potentially great, age-worthy (age-necessary) wines points at birth and that defines them forever. It is more important how a Bordeaux or Barolo tastes at two than how it tastes at twelve. That is obviously half-ass backwards. There are wonderful wines for drinking young and grand wines that don?t achieve their regal stature for years. Trying to make those wines ready to drink upon release denies their true potential. It is silly to think that a wine can become instantly profound. Like the people that make them, few wines become become complex as adolescents. It would be depressing to think you achieved your intellectual peak at thirteen. Why do the same thing to the world?s finest wines. Technorati Tags: wine,Rioja,Spain
WorldWine Tags: wine, Rioja, Spain,

[11/18/2008, 01:39] Mountain X Hunter Shiraz 2006

The Mountain X Hunter Shiraz 2006 is the inaugural release and the brain child of Gary Walsh and Campbell Mattison of The Wine Front. It is a blend of 95% Hunter Shiraz (good start) and 5% Yarra Pinot - a throwback to a traditional hunter blend of yesteryear. The winemakers are Rhys Eather (Meerea Park) and Franco d’Anna (Hoddles Creek) respectively. Stylistically modern Hunter Valley - showing fruity aromas of cherry, blackcurrant and some licorice. The palate is initially juicy and intense with tangy dark fruits and berries, a dash of spice and a dollop of vanilla oak. There are just enough super fine and approachable tannins to pull the finish into the savoury realm. If you plan to drink up now, I suggest 2+ hours in a decanter, otherwise it should improve in the cellar over the medium term. A successful first release, there is something here for hunterists and non-hunterists alike. Since I don’t mind giving this lot a plug, you can buy the wine from the Boutique Wine Center, Boccaccio or North Sydney Cellars. Score: 91/100 Price: $30 Closure: Diam Alcohol: 13.5% Would I buy this wine again? Yes I will, $30 is a reasonable price for a low production, hand picked and unique wine.

[11/17/2008, 07:11] The Best South African Wines, Part II: Cape Wine 2008 Scores

I went to South Africa to learn about South African wine, and the primary way for me to do that is to taste. So taste I did -- probably more than 500 wines by the end of the week -- spending two full days going from booth to booth at the Cape Wine 2008 expo trying to taste a wide cross section of South African wine while at the same time making sure to hit some of the producers I knew were among South Africa's best. The end result? Scores for more than 350 wines, and a very rapid education indeed. I got a sense of which varietals seemed to shine (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux Blends, and some Syrahs) and which were struggling to find proper expression (Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Merlot, among others). I also began to get a sense of the various wine growing regions and the range of styles that winemakers were using. I've provided my detailed conclusions in a previous post, which I encourage you to read if you haven't followed the entire series of my posts from South Africa. But to summarize, South Africa falls somewhere between up-and-coming and world-class. There are some excellent wines being made in the country (along with a lot of just mediocre stuff), but few wines that I found to be knock-my-socks-off good. Having said that, however, South Africa seems to me to be one of the major sources of wine values left on the planet. As you can see by some of the prices with my notes below, there are some tremendous wines to be had in the $20-30 price range, at a level of quality that would result in prices at least twice that high were the wines from Napa, for instance. In addition to my usual lineup of scores, I have included tasting notes for some of the wines that I found most interesting or compelling, and provided links to purchase some of my favorites. Many of these wines are sadly not yet imported into the United States, or imported very selectively, so I apologize in advance for any you may get excited about only to find that they are not available to you. Without further ado, here are my scores and tasting notes for the more than 350 wines I tasted at the Cape Wine 2008 event, which it took me more than a month to write up here. Please note that the price ranges are rough guidelines provided by the producers, not the actual range of pricing for a given wine. White Wines WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2007 Sequillo Cellars White Blend. Light gold in the glass, this unusual blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne has a surprising nose of white peaches, star fruit, and greenish tropical fruit aromas that are tough to pin down. In the mouth the wine is nothing short of gorgeous. Lovely, silky texture carries flavors of peaches and honeysuckle that are balanced perfectly with a mineral acidity so that the whole wine resonates through a long finish that leaves a simple, lowercase, "wow" at the end of my scribbled notes from the day. $35. Where to buy? 2007 Ken Forrester Wines "T Noble Late Harvest" Chenin Blanc. Amber gold in the glass, this wine has an explosive nose of apricots and honey that you can smell from three feet away. On the tongue it is liquid satin gold, draping itself like a discarded negligee over the palate and oozing flavors of orange blossom, apricots and honey. Oozing might not be the right word, however, as this wine has amazing acidity that puckers the cheeks and juices the tastebuds until they cry out for more. Incredibly limited production means that this is made in quantities approaching 50 cases each year. $55. Where to buy? WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2007 Kleinood "Tamboerskloof" Viognier. Pale gold in the glass, this wine has a very mineral nose of peaches, gold cream and wet granite aromas. In the mouth it is bright and luscious with great acidity and flavors of white peaches crushed minerals and hints of white flowers and citrus zest. Delicious and well balanced with none of the clunky characteristics that are so often found in New World Viognier. $5-7. 2008 Graham Beck Wines "Gamekeeper's Reserve" Chenin Blanc. Pale gold in the glass this wine has a nose of freshly cut pears and apples. In the mouth it is bright and lean with flavors of pears, caramel apples, and hints of cinnamon. Remarkable and delicious. $30-50. 2007 Ataraxia Wines Chardonnay. Light green-gold in the glass, this wine has a pungent nose of warm leather and cold cream aromas. In the mouth it is crystalline with acidity which serves up mouth puckering flavors of lemon curd, lemon zest and grapefruit juice -- a concoction of refreshing, delicious flavors that swirls through a long finish. Outstanding. $38. Where to buy? 2007 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Anais" Chardonnay. Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of cold cream and lemon custard, making my mouth water before I even taste it. On the palate it is firm and weighty, smooth and bright with lemon curd, cold cream, and a strong mineral quality that is as surprising as it is delicious. $30. Where to buy? 2007 Sadie Family Wines "Palladius" White Blend. Light gold in color, this wine has a nose of wet granite, clover honey, and lemon blossom scents. In the mouth it is angular and explosively bright with juicy lemon-flavored acidity and lean mineral qualities that mellow into cold cream and soft texture as the wine finishes lovely and long. $40. Where to buy? 2007 Ken Forrester Wines "The FMC" Chenin Blanc. Light gold in color, this wine has a gorgeous nose of white flowers, honey, and fresh, ripe pear aromas. In the mouth it is crisp and just slightly off-dry, with lightly sweet flavors of poached pear and flowers that linger in a long, long finish. Likely a beautiful cheese wine. $49. Where to buy? 2007 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Sauvignon Blanc. $??. 2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvignon Blanc. $30. Where to buy? 2007 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14. Where to buy? WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2006 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay. $50 or more 2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Steen op Hout" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2006 Simonsig Wine Estate "Kaapse Vonkel" Pinot Noir. $14-30 2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Chenin Blanc. $7-14 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "The Weir" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Painted Wolf Wines "Castle View" Viognier. $30-50 2007 La Motte Chardonnay. $14-30 2006 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bateleur" Chardonnay. $50 or more 2008 Graham Beck Wines "Pheasants Run" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2003 Graham Beck Wines "Cuvee Clive Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $?? 2005 Springfield Estate "Wild Yeast" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Vergelegen "Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 NV Quando Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay. $22 2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Viognier. $14-30 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Bukettraube. $?? 2006 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Beyerskloof Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2007 Hartenberg Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2007 Hartenberg Estate Weisser Riesling. $7-14 2007 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock White Blend" Chenin Blanc. $30-50 2004 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvingon Blanc. $?? 2005 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvingon Blanc. $?? 2007 L'Avenir Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 L'Avenir Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Ken Forrester Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 2005 Mulderbosch Vineyards Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 Simonsig Wine Estate "Sunbird" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Green Duck - The Dutchess" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2008 Painted Wolf Wines White Blend. $?? 2008 La Motte "Pierneef" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Limestone Hill" Chardonnay. $14-30 2005 De Wetshof Estate "D'Honneur" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Graham Beck Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2005 Graham Beck Wines "Brut Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $?? NV Graham Beck Wines "Bliss Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine". $?? 2005 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Springfield Estate "Special Cuvee" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Steenberg Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Barton Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2007 Uva Mira Vineyards "Single Vineyard" Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Vergelegen Semillon. $30-50 2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $7-14 2008 Waterford Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $20 2007 Lammershoek Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette Blanc" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 NV Iona Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Crocodile's Lair / Kaaimansgat" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Chenin Blanc. $?? 2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Elanor" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Ataraxia Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Gewurztraminer. $14-30 2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Land of Hope" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2006 Cape Point Vineyards Semillon. $14-30 2008 Cape Point Vineyards "Stonehaven" Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $5-7 2007 Jordan Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 Jordan Winery "Nine Yards" Chardonnay. $30-50 WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 2007 Simonsig Wine Estate Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Simonsig Wine Estate Chenin Blanc. $7-14 NV Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Brut Methode Cap Classique" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Lesca" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Springfield Estate "Life From Stone" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Klein Constantia Estate "Rhine Riesling" Riesling. $14-30 2007 Steenberg Vineyards Semillon. $30-50 2006 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $?? 2006 Ses'fikile Wines "Rain Song" Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Uva Mira Vineyards "Cellar Selection" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 M'hudi Sauvignon Blanc. $16 2007 Meerlust Estate Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Dombeya Wines Chardonnay. $7-14 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Chardonnay. $7-14 2007 Fairview Viognier. $?? 2008 Waterford Estate "Pecan Stream" Chenin Blanc. $12 2007 Waterford Estate Chardonnay. $24 2005 Bon Cap Organic Wines "MCC" Chardonnay. $7-14 2007 Jason's Hill Private Cellar Viognier. $5 2007 Iona Vineyards Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Blanc de Mer" Weisser Riesling. $7-14 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Sans Barrique" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Walker Bay" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Semillon. $?? 2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Vinum" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 The Winery of Good Hope" Radford Dale" Viognier. $?? 2008 L'Avenir Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Jordan Winery Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Jordan Winery Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bon Vallon" Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 Scali Chenin Blanc. $24 2008 Dombeya Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Sauvignon Blanc. $5 NV Quando Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc. $5-7 WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 RAKA Chenin Blanc. $?? WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 7.5 AND 8 2008 Teddy Hall Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 7.75 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Chardonnay. $5 7.75 2008 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 7.75 WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE UNDER 7.5 2008 Springfield Estate "Firefinch" Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2008 Barton Vineyards White Blend. $?? 2008 Bon Cap Organic Wines Viognier. $7-14 2008 RAKA Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2005 Wedderwill Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 Pink Wines PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2008 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Tortoise Hill" Pinotage Rosé. $7-14 Where to buy? 2006 Graham Beck Wines Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir). Pale rose pink in the glass with medium bubbles, this wine has a nose of bright citrus and warm brioche aromas. In the mouth it has a very fine mousse foam with beautiful flavors of rosehips, melon, and floral notes that creep in towards the back of the throat. Delicious. $20. Where to buy? PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2008 Beyerskloof Pinotage Rosé. Pale salmon in color, this wine has a nose of wet leaves, rosehips, and orange peel aromas. In the mouth it is tangy and lively with acidity that wraps around flavors of orange peel, raspberry, and rosehips. Crisp, clean, and delightful, this wine makes me wonder if maybe the destiny of Pinotage is to make pink wines. $10. Where to buy? PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2008 Graham Beck Wines Malbec Rosé. $7-14 2008 Golden Kaan Limited Pinotage Rosé. $7-14 PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2008 Mulderbosch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. $14-30 PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Shiraz Rosé. $5 PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 RAKA Rosé. $7-14 2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Shiraz Rosé. $14-30 Red Wines RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2005 Sequillo Cellars Red Blend. Inky garnet in color, this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre has a beautiful dark nose of mulberry, earth, and cassis aromas. In the mouth it is the wine equivalent of Valentino in his prime -- utterly seductive, dark, and just exotic enough to be mysterious. Rich, textured, complex flavors of cassis, mulberry, and other dark fruits, juicy with great acidity, linger into a long finish where the faintest hint of tannins emerge, but only for those paying close attention. And it's hard to pay attention when all this wine makes you want to do is swallow, swallow, and swallow some more. $35. Where to buy? 2006 Sadie Family Wines "Columella" Red Rhone Blend. Dark ruby in the glass, this blend of Syrah and Mourvedre has a nose of bright cassis, blackberry, and grape aromas. In the mouth it is...there's no other way to put it....rockin' with flavor: cassis, blackberry, black cherry, and other rich ripe dark fruits swirl in a concoction that is shot through with a dry minerality and deep complex texture that evokes some of the best wines of the Northern Rhone. If I am reading my sloppy tasting note correctly, I believe the finish was described in the moment as "hot damn." $85. Where to buy? RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2007 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Nature in Concert" Pinot Noir $7-14 Medium garnet in the glass, this wine has a bright nose of pomegranate and cranberry aromas with hints of herbs. In the mouth it is juicy and bright with great acidity that carries flavors of cranberry, cherry, and a woody cedar note that carries through the very long finish. Tasty. $?? 2005 Stellekaya Winery "Orion" Cabernet Sauvignon. Intense, inky ruby in color, this wine has an intruiging nose of piney, savory, almost chewy aromas that include black pepper, dirt, and a hint of green bell pepper. On the palate the wine is classic cherry, cedar, and pipe tobacco flavors, with a nice balance and hints of espresso on the moderate finish. Complex, nuanced, and yummy. $7-14. 2003 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. Poured out of a 1.5 liter bottle, this wine is bright medium ruby colored in the glass, with aromas of cedar, cherry, and fresh pine. In the mouth it is beautifully textured, perfectly balanced and juicy with flavors of cherry, sandalwood, plum, and hints of sawdust among the light tannins that emerge as the wine finishes long and lovely. $25. Where to buy? 2005 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette" Shiraz. Medium garnet in color, this wine has a bright, fruity nose of pure cassis. In the mouth it is beatifully dry and smooth with deep earth, leather, and cassis flavors tinged by herbs. The finish is long, lean and resonant. $21. Where to buy? 2004 Kanonkop Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium garnet in color, this wine has a nose of cherry, tobacco and espresso aromas. In the mouth it offers primary flavors of espresso, cherry, and tobacco, knt together with fine grained tannins and nice acidity. The wine has an elegance that is exemplified by its long finish. $25. 2005 Kanonkop Wine Estate "Paul Sauer" Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet in color, this wine has a rich nose of cedar and black cherry aromas. On the tongue it is a velvet caress of black cherry, earth and tobacco flavors. The tannnins are soft and beautifully structured, balanced perfectly with the wines acidity and weight. The overall quality of this wine that sticks in the mind is its smoothness. Outstanding. $40. Where to buy? 2006 Cederberg Private Cellars Shiraz. Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine has a luscious nose of blackberry fruit with a spicy, meaty undertone that leans the aromas distinctly towards the savory end of the spectrum. In the mouth it is bright and round and full of cassis and blackberry flavors with a hint of leather on the finish. Delicious. $25. Where to buy? 2006 L'Avenir" Grand Vin" Pinotage. Inky garnet in color, this wine has a very pretty nose of floral and ripe plum aromas. In the mouth it offers rich flavors of cherry, cocoa powder, raspberry and cranberry all swirling around on silk textures. Faint tannins, nice acidit, and a long beautiful finish round out one of the best Pinotages I have ever had. $30-50. 2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale" Shiraz. $30-50. 2007 Mischa Estate "Not yet named" Bordeaux Blend. $N/A 2004 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Shiraz. $50. Where to buy? 2006 Stark-Condé "Three Pines" Shiraz. $35. RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2006 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "Theta" Shiraz. $50 2005 Kleinood (Tamboerskloof Syrah/Viognier) Shiraz. $7-14 2006 Stark-Condé "Stellenbosch" Cabernet Sauvignon. $25 2006 Stellekaya Winery Shiraz. $7-14 2005 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Grand Classique" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Gravel Quarr" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2003 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Les Pleurs" Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Painted Wolf Wines "Borg Family" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines "Cape Blend" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Pinotage. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Shiraz. $?? 2004 Morgenster Estate Merlot. $?? 2004 Morgenster Estate "Lourens River Valley" Merlot. $?? 2006 Morgenster Estate "Tosca" Sangiovese. $?? 2002 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2003 Vergelegen "Red" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2004 Vergelegen "V" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2004 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2005 Dombeya Wines "Samara" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Mvemve Raats "De Compostella" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2007 Waboomsrivier Wine Cellar Pinotage. $5 2007 Iona Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Kanonkop Wine Estate Pinotage. $14-30 2006 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Ameena" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Cabernet Sauvignon. $?? 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Teen Die Hoog - Cape Winemakers Guild" Shiraz. $?? 2004 Beyerskloof "Field Blend" Cape Blend. $?? 2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Stork" Shiraz. $?? 2006 Ataraxia Wines "Serenity" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Luddite Wines Shiraz. $?? 2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock Red Blend" Shiraz. $30-50 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale Gravity" Bordeaux Blend. $50 or more 2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Scarborough" Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7 2006 L'Avenir Pinotage. $14-30 2005 Ken Forrester Wines "The Gypsy" Shiraz. $30-50 2004 Jordan Winery "Cobblers Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2007 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "The Raptor Post" Shiraz. $50 2005 Rudera Wines Shiraz. $?? 2006 Stark-Condé "Stellenbosch" Shiraz. $25 2006 Stark-Condé "Three Pines" Cabernet Sauvignon. $35 2006 Stellekaya Winery "Hercules" Sangiovese. $7-14 2004 Stellekaya Winery "Cape Cross" Merlot. $7-14 2006 Ernie Els Wines "Cirrus" Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Ernie Els Wines "Engelbrecht Els" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Jonty's Ducks" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines "Swartland" Merlot. $30-50 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Rhone Blend. $?? 2006 La Motte "Pierneef" Shiraz. $30-50 2007 Graham Beck Wines "Gamekeeper's Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Graham Beck Wines "The Joshua" Shiraz. $30-50 2005 Scali Pinotage. $24 2006 Steenberg Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Beaumont Wines Mourvedre. $30-50 2006 Beaumont Wines Pinotage. $14-30 2006 Barton Vineyards Shiraz. $?? 2005 Uva Mira Vineyards "Vineyard Selection" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2005 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Meerlust Estate Pinot Noir. $30-50 2004 Glenelly Cellars "Glenelly Hill" Shiraz. $?? 2006 Dombeya Wines Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Shiraz. $7-14 2007 Fairview "Caldera" Grenache. $?? 2006 Fairview "Cyril Back" Shiraz. $?? 2006 Fairview "Eenzaamheid (Solitude)" Shiraz. $?? 2007 Fairview "Primo" Pinotage. $?? 2005 Waterford Estate "Kevin Arnold" Shiraz. $35 2005 Waterford Estate "The Jem" Cabernet Sauvignon. $100 2006 RAKA "Biography" Shiraz. $30-50 2006 RAKA "Figurehead" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2004 RAKA "Quinary" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2005 Iona Vineyards "The Gunnar" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir. $25 2007 Southern Right Pinotage. $14-30 2006 Bouchard Finlayson "Hannibal" Sangiovese. $30-50 2006 Mischa Estate Shiraz. $14-30 1983 Delheim" Grand Reserve" Bordeaux Blend. $?? 2007 Kanonkop Wine Estate "Kadette" Pinotage. $7-14 2006 Cederberg Private Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. $?? 2005 Beyerskloof "Synergy Cape Blend" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2005 Hartenberg Estate Shiraz. $30-50 2004 Hartenberg Estate "The Mackenzie" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2007 Raats Family Wines Cabernet Franc. $30-50 2008 The Winery of Good Hope Pinotage. $7-14 2007 The Winery of Good Hope" Radford Dale" Shiraz. $?? 2006 L'Avenir Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2008 L'Avenir" Rosé de Pinotage" Pinotage. $7-14 2006 L'Avenir" Stellenbosch Classic" Bordeaux Blend. $?? 2005 Ken Forrester Wines Shiraz. $14-30 RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2005 Rudera Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. $?? 2006 Rudera Wines "Lola" Syrah. $?? 2005 Mulderbosch Vineyards Shiraz. $50 or more 2004 Simonsig Wine Estate "Frans Malan" Pinotage. $14-30 2007 Simonsig Wine Estate "Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rose" Pinotage. $30-50 2004 Simonsig Wine Estate "Labyrinth" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2005 Simonsig Wine Estate "Merindol" Shiraz. $30-50 2002 Simonsig Wine Estate "Tiara" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2005 Stellekaya Winery Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14 2006 Stellekaya Winery Merlot. $7-14 2004 Ernie Els Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50 2004 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Camissa" Shiraz. $14-30 2005 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Green Duck - The Duke" Cabernet Franc. $14-30 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Pinotage. $?? 2005 La Motte "Millenium" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 La Motte Shiraz. $14-30 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Bio Rose" Merlot. $7-14 2003 Graham Beck Wines "The Ridge" Shiraz. $30-50 2005 Graham Beck Wines "The William" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Horse Mountain Wines Pinotage. $14-30 2005 Scali Shiraz. $35 2003 Springfield Estate "The Work of Time" Merlot. $30-50 2006 Springfield Estate "Whole Berry" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Steenberg Vineyards Merlot. $30-50 2004 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Uva Mira Vineyards "Cellar Selection" Merlot. $14-30 2006 M'hudi Merlot. $?? 2005 Vergelegen "Mill Race" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Vergelegen Shiraz. $30-50 2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14 2007 Fairview "Pinotage Viognier" Pinotage. $?? 2007 Fairview Shiraz. $?? 2006 Lammershoek Winery Pinotage. $14-30 2007 RAKA Pinotage. $?? 2006 Golden Kaan Limited Pinotage. $7-14 2006 Slanghoek Cellar "Private Selection" Pinotage. $7-14 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Galpin Peak" Pinot Noir. $30-50 2006 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Shiraz. $14-30 2005 Mischa Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Muratie Wine Estate Pinot Noir. $?? 2006 Cederberg Private Cellars "Cederberger" Merlot. $?? 2007 Beyerskloof Pinotage. $7-14 2007 Beyerskloof "Reserve" Pinotage. $14-30 2005 Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2005 Hartenberg Estate Pinotage. $14-30 2005 Hartenberg Estate Merlot. $?? 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Vinum" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2005 Ken Forrester Wines "The Three Halves" Rhone Blend. $?? RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 2003 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "Theta" Shiraz. $50 2006 Simonsig Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14 2004 Simonsig Wine Estate Shiraz. $14-30 2006 La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Morgenster Estate "Nabucco" Nebbiolo. $?? 2005 Graham Beck Wines Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Beaumont Wines "Raoul's Old Basket Press" Tinta Barocca. $7-14 2004 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Cabernet Sauvignon. $?? 2005 Vergelegen Merlot. $30-50 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Merlot. $7-14 2007 Fairview Mourvedre. $?? 2006 Waterford Estate "Pecan Stream Pebble Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon. $29 2006 Lammershoek Winery Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Lammershoek Winery Zinfandel. $14-30 2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines Pinotage. $15 2006 Muratie Wine Estate Shiraz. $?? 2007 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Pinot Noir. $30-50 2006 Jordan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Syrah. $?? RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 Teddy Hall Wines Syrah. $?? 2005 Simonsig Wine Estate Pinotage. $14-30 2006 Ayama Wines Pinotage. $?? 2005 Meerlust Estate Merlot. $30-50 2007 Fairview Alicante Bouschet. $?? 2004 RAKA Merlot. $30-50 2006 RAKA "Spliced" Merlot. $14-30 2006 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2007 Mischa Estate Merlot. $14-30 2005 Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14 2006 L'Avenir Cabernet Franc. $14-30 2006 L'Avenir Merlot. $14-30 2006 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Jordan Winery Merlot. $30-50 RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 7.5 AND 8 2004 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Faithful Hound" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Springfield Estate "Firefinch Ripe Red" Merlot. $7-14 2006 M'hudi Pinotage. $?? 2007 Jason's Hill Private Cellar Pinotage. $5 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Pinotage. $5-7 2007 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Bordeaux Blend. $?? 2006 Fairview Tannat. $?? 2006 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7 RED WINES WITH A SCORE UNDER 7.5 2007 Rudera Wines "Lola" Syrah. $?? NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Shiraz. $5 2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines "Cape Blend" Pinotage. $7-14 2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines Shiraz. $5-7 2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7

[11/17/2008, 04:08] The Glamour of Arrogance

Be hold the way our fine feathered friend His virtue doth parade I don?t know what it is about Sunday. Where once there was a family dinner, now there is solitary reflection in front of an empty screen. From the perspective of practice, when I look around these days, what is it about Italian wine that seems to have become an endless catwalk of the richest, biggest and most obvious? Standing in line, waiting to talk to a wine buyer last week, I was thumbing through a pile of wine reviews and noticed how the wines that were getting all the accolades ( read: 94 points and above) seemed to be these shorn up, beef-caked, tag-team wines that more resemble porn stars than classics. Who is putting these wines in their cellars, let alone their goblets? When did the search for the Shangri-La of wine go so off track? The history of Italian wine shows us that it was built up over the ages by the monastics, who took care to keep the light burning through some dark and dreary days. Nothing so glamorous then, working the fields in the dark, at 4:00 AM in the biting cold. Year after year. With no love, save the Divine Love, to keep the solitary worker in the field, hopeful for a better day. Hope and faith. Not arrogance. I went through a wine collection yesterday, one that has been in the works for 30 years. In it many of the bottles were created by people that are long gone. Some of the newer wines, one in particular, A Super Tuscan from a producer in Montalcino, struck me. I don?t know what the owner will do with the wine. It has too much power to be enjoyed. It?s too noisy, wants to lead but doesn?t really need a partner to dance with. I?d say to put it in the ?drink now? bin, but I?m not sure it will ever be ready to drink. I spied a few California wines, some which were blockbusters in their day, now shuffling off to the veteran?s home, no fire left in them. Maybe that is where these over-promising and under-delivering Super Tuscans will end up. Which seems like a waste of the Tuscan land which wrought them from the ground. Whether it is Tuscany or Campania, Sicily or Friuli, Italian wines are at a crossroads. They have fashioned themselves to be these worldly wines in a universe of other worldly wines, all competing for the attention of the same buyer. And those buyers are looking for the next big thing, whether it is an Ovid from Napa or a Mollydooker or God knows what. Why? When did Ferrari seek to emulate General Motors? Or Ducati chase after Harley Davidson? Still, Italian wine chases after the Shangri La wine crowd. And if an Italian wine becomes a landmark, say a Sassicaia or a Bric dël Fiasc, does that really lead them (and the rest of us) into the Promised Land? How does it go, for what shall it profit a man, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul? And if the Italian wine succeeds in becoming the king pin of all wines, then what? Defending a territory that for all purposes doesn?t exist in Italy? That would be the fitting punishment for succeeding in looking away from all that is unique and indigenously wonderful in many of the wines of Italy. It?s not too late to turn back, some of the young winemakers have looked beyond marketing and their Upper West Side flats to embrace their soil. Not glam, but sans arrogance. We can only hope. And work to help those who see this as a time to return to their winemaking as an act of selflessness and true vocation. Sounds almost ecclesiastic. Oh, wouldn?t it be loverly? Then all we?d have to do would be to figure out what to do with all these monstrous wines lying around. written by Alfonso Cevola limited rights reserved On the Wine Trail in Italy