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[11/20/2008, 08:10]

The Skeptic's Guide to Biodynamic Wine

The average wine consumer has no idea what it means for a wine to be organic. And when it comes to Biodynamic wines, most wine drinkers have never even heard of them. But that doesn't matter, because an increasing number of the most sought-after, expensive wines in the world are biodynamically produced, which means that biodynamics is one of the most significant modern trends in global winemaking.

The only problem (for those who care) is that biodynamic winemaking involves a maddening, paradoxical mixture of scientifically sound farming practices and utterly ridiculous new-age mysticism. If you want to know just how kooky it can get, you might be interested in a recent feature on biodynamic wine in SF Weekly, which dives into detail on the cow skulls stuffed with oak bark left in a hole; the red deer bladders filled with yarrow flowers buried in compost piles; the proscriptions to burn insects in the vineyards only during certain proper planetary alignment; and the claims that the moon should determine when you put your wine into new barrels.

Of course, if you actually believe in biodynamics, you now hate my guts along with Joe Eskenazi, the author of the aforementioned article which is entitled Voodoo on the Vine.

Joe's angle on biodynamic winemaking will draw criticism for focusing only on the strangest parts of an elaborate farming and winemaking methodology. His (and my) detractors would be justified in complaining at the sensationalism of a few practices, and a few predilections of the methods inventor, while many, even most biodynamic winemaking principles are the same as good old organic farming.

But that is precisely the problem. Most biodynamic farming principles make sense because they are the same as scientifically grounded organic farming (e.g. don't use pesticides; let the sheep take care of the weeds and fertilize the soil; etc.). But then the whole system is undermined by the use of, and rationalization for, special preparations and actions that are not only bizarre in their conception, but explained by the worst kind of pseudo-scientific quasi-religious gobbledygook that you could possible imagine.

You can't imagine how angry this makes me. You see, I love biodynamic wine. Some of my favorite wines in the world; some of the best wines I have ever tasted in my life; some of the wineries that seem to consistently make some of the highest quality wines I have ever experienced are produced biodynamically, and I don't believe this is a coincidence.

This is what Joe Eskenazi did not include in his article, perhaps because he's not fully immersed in the world of wine. While he rightfully points out, with the appropriate level of cynicism, the fact that some wine producers are moving to make biodynamic wine because they think it will sell better, there are many more producers who have been making wine biodynamically for years, even decades without ever telling anyone about it, least of all the people who buy their wine. These winemakers are some of the smartest, most talented folks in the wine industry. The only reason they would possibly be producing wine biodynamically (which Eskenazi's article points out is much more labor, time, and cost intensive than any other farming method) must be that they believe they make better wine that way.

There are two types of people in the world. Those who believe that while science is not perfect, it is the most powerful interpretation that we have found of the world around us, and those who believe that there are better explanations for what we observe in the natural world than science can provide. I am very much a member of the first group. There's a lot we don't know about the world yet, and there are a lot of really interesting interpretations about how things work, but the scientific method produces the most reliable interpretations of what is real and what is true that I know of. I (and pretty much everyone in a first world nation, whether they know it or not) trust my life to that fact nearly every moment of every single day.

And that belief I hold is precisely the source of my unending frustration with biodynamic wine. I think it's good stuff. But I know it's not good for the reasons that the people who make it, and the people who tell them how to make it, say it is. The claims of the philosophy that underlies biodynamic wine growing, and the specific explanations for various prescriptions of the farming and winemaking process are just plain wrong. They can be proved wrong, in some cases simply with a calculator, but in all cases by rigorous scientific enquiry.

Which is why I keep hoping that someone will come up with Biodynamics Lite™: a kinder, gentler form of biodynamic winemaking that throws out all the bullshit, and sticks to the things that science tells us will actually work.

I plan on continuing to drink more and more biodynamic wine, and encourage everyone who loves wine to do so as well. I just hope there is a day when I don't have to roll my eyes a little every time I see the word on a wine label, or bite my fist as a winemaker proudly tells me that the reason I love his wine is due to the fact that he completely avoided the dueling vortices when he mixed his preparation of ground up quartz crystals.

Read the full article in SF Weekly.

My friend Jack at Fork & Bottle has the most complete list of biodynamic wine producers that I know of.



[11/19/2008, 07:22]

The Trudge

La Faticaccia

how to buy wineNot good news from the front lines of the selling game. From what I am seeing, getting to the end of the year unscathed will be highly uncertain. We?re in the thick of things now, the deep trough, the slog through the sludge. Forget about keeping your mukluks sparkly clean, we?re going into the uncharted terroir of the slime. And it ain?t autochthonous. Or archetypical.

how to buy wineFunny how wine geeks love to talk about the feel of the soil. But when it gets soggy and tracks through the house, folks be singing another tune. Until the end of the year, the wine business is joining the rest of the economy in just getting through these days.

Small or large, importer or distributor, terroir-driven or industrial-fashioned, wines in these times, and selling them, have some particular challenges. Call it Stock and Awe.

First, the warehouses are full. As, I am sure, are the winery stockrooms. Just like the car lots and portside lots, space is running out. Meanwhile, folks aren?t running out to buy a car or a TV or the same bottle of wine.

In a short survey today, while driving from Dallas to Austin, I talked to importers. Some have a niche market of artisanly crafted wines and others have more commercially made offerings. In either case, marketers are telling me they are worried. Vintages are starting to back up.

how to buy wineAnother concern is the Europeans. Since they perceive the dollar is stronger, and they are wrestling with inflation and recession, some camps think they will push for price increases to bolster their margins. That would be a huge mistake to entertain such fantasies. Not because they aren?t entitled to recoup margins after holding back their prices while the dollar was in the tank. Unfortunately now there are other things in a tailspin and to have any price points spiral up would be suicide. But I am sure many of those folks won?t be reading this blog. Those who do, would save time and lost sales and just bite the bullet for the next eighteen months.

Forget about the problems about Brunello. It will seem small by comparison to the next wave that is in motion. And a year or two from now let?s see if this seemingly pessimistic assessment will be prophetic or aimed in the wrong direction. I hope it is erroneous. In the interim, it will be crucial that the industry moves forward slowly. Introducing new items? This probably won?t be a good opportunity moment. Beefing up inventory? We?re going to see a new definition of just-in-time. It?ll probably be more like, when we run out, then we?ll order. After we sell some other product sitting, waiting for its day.

What will be telling? When, like the auto industry, folks decide instead of waiting around for a bail-out, they start selling wines, at reduced margins in order to just move product out to make room for the next round of offerings. Both products have a shelf life; cars rust, wines get tired.

how to buy wineI feel for a friend, who has recently taken the leap to import and self distribute, with containers just showing up. Unknown wines in a time when even things known have slowed down. This is not a good time to be exposed to the elements of the downturn. It?s going to take a lot of street beating, wearing out some of the old shoe leather. Forget about chasing maidens around the primordial ooze.

how to buy wineSo the fancy Beatle boots of the dandy salesman, like the three martini lunch, is a sullied white elephant in today?s climate.

how to buy wineMaybe a drill sergeant?s pair of boots would be more suitable for the combat in the streets, Main or Wall. The situation on the ground calls for a little less speculation (and editing of the fantasy-dream sequence) and a little more real time pounding of the concrete. What some of the old bull elephants in the selling game call getting out of the mud bath and trudging into the village. Stay tuned.

how to buy wine




[11/18/2008, 01:44]

Cameron Hughes, Lot 93, Tempranillo 2004

Négociant Cameron Hughes has made a name for himself selecting and sometimes blending wines that drink like twice or sometimes three times their asking price. Using direct to consumer marketing on his website and distribution through warehouse retailers like Costco and Sam’s Club, Hughes effectively disintermediates the 3-tier wine distribution system here in the U.S. This means he can make money selling $10-20 wines that he sources from some of the top producers around the world.

how to buy wineThis past Saturday I presented three of his wines as part of Twitter Taste Live 5. All the wines were provided by Cameron Hughes as samples but I was very impressed with each wine which I will review over the next few weeks here. But the most impressive wine was a new release today, Lot 93, a 2004 Tempranillo from Spain’s Rioja region.

When I opened this wine Saturday, the brand on the cork indicated the producer is Bodegas Covila. On my visit to the region last year, I was struck by how every winery seemed to age their wines as “shiners” or unlabeled, selling the wine when it was “ready to drink.” This old school philosophy makes many wines from Spain tremendous values and provides stock for folks like Cameron Hughes to buy and label for his customers. The result is one of the best values I’ve ever seen as this could easily sell for $50-60 a bottle.

Tasting notes:

Cameron Hughes, “Lot 93″, Tempranillo, Rioja 2004 ($21/sample) - Dark ruby in color with black cherry, cassis, fennel, cocoa and vanilla aromas. Sleek and concentrated black cherry & dark currant fruit with some black pepper and a touch of earth finishing long with firm, but surprisingly well integrated, tannins. A well structured wine that will age for another 5-8 years. The most extreme value I’ve tasted yet from this négociant. Highly recommended.

13.5% ABV
Natural cork closure
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Buy this wine online

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[11/18/2008, 01:39]

Mountain X Hunter Shiraz 2006

how to buy wineThe Mountain X Hunter Shiraz 2006 is the inaugural release and the brain child of Gary Walsh and Campbell Mattison of The Wine Front. It is a blend of 95% Hunter Shiraz (good start) and 5% Yarra Pinot - a throwback to a traditional hunter blend of yesteryear. The winemakers are Rhys Eather (Meerea Park) and Franco d’Anna (Hoddles Creek) respectively.

Stylistically modern Hunter Valley - showing fruity aromas of cherry, blackcurrant and some licorice. The palate is initially juicy and intense with tangy dark fruits and berries, a dash of spice and a dollop of vanilla oak. There are just enough super fine and approachable tannins to pull the finish into the savoury realm.

If you plan to drink up now, I suggest 2+ hours in a decanter, otherwise it should improve in the cellar over the medium term. A successful first release, there is something here for hunterists and non-hunterists alike. Since I don’t mind giving this lot a plug, you can buy the wine from the Boutique Wine Center, Boccaccio or North Sydney Cellars.

Score: 91/100
Price: $30
Closure: Diam
Alcohol: 13.5%
Would I buy this wine again?
Yes I will, $30 is a reasonable price for a low production, hand picked and unique wine.

how to buy wine how to buy wine
how to buy wine
[11/17/2008, 07:11]

The Best South African Wines, Part II: Cape Wine 2008 Scores

how to buy wineI went to South Africa to learn about South African wine, and the primary way for me to do that is to taste. So taste I did -- probably more than 500 wines by the end of the week -- spending two full days going from booth to booth at the Cape Wine 2008 expo trying to taste a wide cross section of South African wine while at the same time making sure to hit some of the producers I knew were among South Africa's best.

The end result? Scores for more than 350 wines, and a very rapid education indeed. I got a sense of which varietals seemed to shine (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux Blends, and some Syrahs) and which were struggling to find proper expression (Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Merlot, among others). I also began to get a sense of the various wine growing regions and the range of styles that winemakers were using.

I've provided my detailed conclusions in a previous post, which I encourage you to read if you haven't followed the entire series of my posts from South Africa. But to summarize, South Africa falls somewhere between up-and-coming and world-class. There are some excellent wines being made in the country (along with a lot of just mediocre stuff), but few wines that I found to be knock-my-socks-off good.

Having said that, however, South Africa seems to me to be one of the major sources of wine values left on the planet. As you can see by some of the prices with my notes below, there are some tremendous wines to be had in the $20-30 price range, at a level of quality that would result in prices at least twice that high were the wines from Napa, for instance.

In addition to my usual lineup of scores, I have included tasting notes for some of the wines that I found most interesting or compelling, and provided links to purchase some of my favorites. Many of these wines are sadly not yet imported into the United States, or imported very selectively, so I apologize in advance for any you may get excited about only to find that they are not available to you.

Without further ado, here are my scores and tasting notes for the more than 350 wines I tasted at the Cape Wine 2008 event, which it took me more than a month to write up here. Please note that the price ranges are rough guidelines provided by the producers, not the actual range of pricing for a given wine.


White Wines

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5

2007 Sequillo Cellars White Blend.
Light gold in the glass, this unusual blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne has a surprising nose of white peaches, star fruit, and greenish tropical fruit aromas that are tough to pin down. In the mouth the wine is nothing short of gorgeous. Lovely, silky texture carries flavors of peaches and honeysuckle that are balanced perfectly with a mineral acidity so that the whole wine resonates through a long finish that leaves a simple, lowercase, "wow" at the end of my scribbled notes from the day. $35. Where to buy?

2007 Ken Forrester Wines "T Noble Late Harvest" Chenin Blanc.
Amber gold in the glass, this wine has an explosive nose of apricots and honey that you can smell from three feet away. On the tongue it is liquid satin gold, draping itself like a discarded negligee over the palate and oozing flavors of orange blossom, apricots and honey. Oozing might not be the right word, however, as this wine has amazing acidity that puckers the cheeks and juices the tastebuds until they cry out for more. Incredibly limited production means that this is made in quantities approaching 50 cases each year. $55. Where to buy?

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2007 Kleinood "Tamboerskloof" Viognier.
Pale gold in the glass, this wine has a very mineral nose of peaches, gold cream and wet granite aromas. In the mouth it is bright and luscious with great acidity and flavors of white peaches crushed minerals and hints of white flowers and citrus zest. Delicious and well balanced with none of the clunky characteristics that are so often found in New World Viognier. $5-7.

2008 Graham Beck Wines "Gamekeeper's Reserve" Chenin Blanc.
Pale gold in the glass this wine has a nose of freshly cut pears and apples. In the mouth it is bright and lean with flavors of pears, caramel apples, and hints of cinnamon. Remarkable and delicious. $30-50.

2007 Ataraxia Wines Chardonnay.
Light green-gold in the glass, this wine has a pungent nose of warm leather and cold cream aromas. In the mouth it is crystalline with acidity which serves up mouth puckering flavors of lemon curd, lemon zest and grapefruit juice -- a concoction of refreshing, delicious flavors that swirls through a long finish. Outstanding. $38. Where to buy?

2007 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Anais" Chardonnay.
Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of cold cream and lemon custard, making my mouth water before I even taste it. On the palate it is firm and weighty, smooth and bright with lemon curd, cold cream, and a strong mineral quality that is as surprising as it is delicious. $30. Where to buy?

2007 Sadie Family Wines "Palladius" White Blend.
Light gold in color, this wine has a nose of wet granite, clover honey, and lemon blossom scents. In the mouth it is angular and explosively bright with juicy lemon-flavored acidity and lean mineral qualities that mellow into cold cream and soft texture as the wine finishes lovely and long. $40. Where to buy?

2007 Ken Forrester Wines "The FMC" Chenin Blanc.
Light gold in color, this wine has a gorgeous nose of white flowers, honey, and fresh, ripe pear aromas. In the mouth it is crisp and just slightly off-dry, with lightly sweet flavors of poached pear and flowers that linger in a long, long finish. Likely a beautiful cheese wine. $49. Where to buy?

2007 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Sauvignon Blanc. $??.
2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvignon Blanc. $30. Where to buy?
2007 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14. Where to buy?

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2006 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay. $50 or more
2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Steen op Hout" Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2006 Simonsig Wine Estate "Kaapse Vonkel" Pinot Noir. $14-30
2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Chenin Blanc. $7-14
2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "The Weir" Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Painted Wolf Wines "Castle View" Viognier. $30-50
2007 La Motte Chardonnay. $14-30
2006 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bateleur" Chardonnay. $50 or more
2008 Graham Beck Wines "Pheasants Run" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50
2003 Graham Beck Wines "Cuvee Clive Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $??
2005 Springfield Estate "Wild Yeast" Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Vergelegen "Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50
2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14
NV Quando Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay. $22
2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Viognier. $14-30
2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Bukettraube. $??
2006 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Chenin Blanc. $??
2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Sauvignon Blanc. $??
2008 Beyerskloof Sauvignon Blanc. $??
2007 Hartenberg Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14
2007 Hartenberg Estate Weisser Riesling. $7-14
2007 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Chardonnay. $30-50
2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock White Blend" Chenin Blanc. $30-50
2004 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvingon Blanc. $??
2005 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvingon Blanc. $??
2007 L'Avenir Chardonnay. $14-30
2007 L'Avenir Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2008 Ken Forrester Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $??
2005 Mulderbosch Vineyards Chardonnay. $30-50
2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50
2008 Simonsig Wine Estate "Sunbird" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Green Duck - The Dutchess" Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14
2008 Painted Wolf Wines White Blend. $??
2008 La Motte "Pierneef" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50
2008 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Limestone Hill" Chardonnay. $14-30
2005 De Wetshof Estate "D'Honneur" Chardonnay. $30-50
2008 Graham Beck Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2005 Graham Beck Wines "Brut Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $??
NV Graham Beck Wines "Bliss Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine". $??
2005 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Chardonnay. $30-50
2008 Springfield Estate "Special Cuvee" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Steenberg Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $??
2008 Barton Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $??
2007 Uva Mira Vineyards "Single Vineyard" Chardonnay. $30-50
2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $14-30
2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $30-50
2008 Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Vergelegen Semillon. $30-50
2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $7-14
2008 Waterford Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $20
2007 Lammershoek Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2007 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette Blanc" Chenin Blanc. $14-30
NV Iona Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Crocodile's Lair / Kaaimansgat" Chardonnay. $30-50
2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Chenin Blanc. $??
2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Elanor" Chardonnay. $30-50
2008 Ataraxia Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $??
2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Gewurztraminer. $14-30
2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Land of Hope" Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2006 Cape Point Vineyards Semillon. $14-30
2008 Cape Point Vineyards "Stonehaven" Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7
2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $5-7
2007 Jordan Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2007 Jordan Winery "Nine Yards" Chardonnay. $30-50

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $??
2007 Simonsig Wine Estate Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Simonsig Wine Estate Chenin Blanc. $7-14
NV Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Brut Methode Cap Classique" Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 De Wetshof Estate "Lesca" Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Springfield Estate "Life From Stone" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Klein Constantia Estate "Rhine Riesling" Riesling. $14-30
2007 Steenberg Vineyards Semillon. $30-50
2006 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $??
2006 Ses'fikile Wines "Rain Song" Chenin Blanc. $??
2008 Uva Mira Vineyards "Cellar Selection" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 M'hudi Sauvignon Blanc. $16
2007 Meerlust Estate Chardonnay. $30-50
2007 Dombeya Wines Chardonnay. $7-14
2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Chardonnay. $7-14
2007 Fairview Viognier. $??
2008 Waterford Estate "Pecan Stream" Chenin Blanc. $12
2007 Waterford Estate Chardonnay. $24
2005 Bon Cap Organic Wines "MCC" Chardonnay. $7-14
2007 Jason's Hill Private Cellar Viognier. $5
2007 Iona Vineyards Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Blanc de Mer" Weisser Riesling. $7-14
2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Sans Barrique" Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Walker Bay" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Semillon. $??
2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Vinum" Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2007 The Winery of Good Hope" Radford Dale" Viognier. $??
2008 L'Avenir Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2007 Jordan Winery Chardonnay. $14-30
2008 Jordan Winery Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
2008 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bon Vallon" Chardonnay. $14-30
2007 Scali Chenin Blanc. $24
2008 Dombeya Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7
NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Sauvignon Blanc. $5
NV Quando Chenin Blanc. $14-30
2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Sauvignon Blanc. $??
2008 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc. $5-7

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8
2008 RAKA Chenin Blanc. $??

WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 7.5 AND 8
2008 Teddy Hall Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 7.75
NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Chardonnay. $5 7.75
2008 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 7.75

WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE UNDER 7.5
2008 Springfield Estate "Firefinch" Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14
2008 Barton Vineyards White Blend. $??
2008 Bon Cap Organic Wines Viognier. $7-14
2008 RAKA Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
2005 Wedderwill Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30


Pink Wines

PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2008 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Tortoise Hill" Pinotage Rosé. $7-14 Where to buy?

2006 Graham Beck Wines Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir).
Pale rose pink in the glass with medium bubbles, this wine has a nose of bright citrus and warm brioche aromas. In the mouth it has a very fine mousse foam with beautiful flavors of rosehips, melon, and floral notes that creep in towards the back of the throat. Delicious. $20. Where to buy?

PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2008 Beyerskloof Pinotage Rosé.
Pale salmon in color, this wine has a nose of wet leaves, rosehips, and orange peel aromas. In the mouth it is tangy and lively with acidity that wraps around flavors of orange peel, raspberry, and rosehips. Crisp, clean, and delightful, this wine makes me wonder if maybe the destiny of Pinotage is to make pink wines. $10. Where to buy?

PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2008 Graham Beck Wines Malbec Rosé. $7-14
2008 Golden Kaan Limited Pinotage Rosé. $7-14

PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2008 Mulderbosch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. $14-30

PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Shiraz Rosé. $5

PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8
2008 RAKA Rosé. $7-14
2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Shiraz Rosé. $14-30


Red Wines

RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2005 Sequillo Cellars Red Blend.
Inky garnet in color, this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre has a beautiful dark nose of mulberry, earth, and cassis aromas. In the mouth it is the wine equivalent of Valentino in his prime -- utterly seductive, dark, and just exotic enough to be mysterious. Rich, textured, complex flavors of cassis, mulberry, and other dark fruits, juicy with great acidity, linger into a long finish where the faintest hint of tannins emerge, but only for those paying close attention. And it's hard to pay attention when all this wine makes you want to do is swallow, swallow, and swallow some more. $35. Where to buy?

2006 Sadie Family Wines "Columella" Red Rhone Blend.
Dark ruby in the glass, this blend of Syrah and Mourvedre has a nose of bright cassis, blackberry, and grape aromas. In the mouth it is...there's no other way to put it....rockin' with flavor: cassis, blackberry, black cherry, and other rich ripe dark fruits swirl in a concoction that is shot through with a dry minerality and deep complex texture that evokes some of the best wines of the Northern Rhone. If I am reading my sloppy tasting note correctly, I believe the finish was described in the moment as "hot damn." $85. Where to buy?

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5
2007 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Nature in Concert" Pinot Noir $7-14
Medium garnet in the glass, this wine has a bright nose of pomegranate and cranberry aromas with hints of herbs. In the mouth it is juicy and bright with great acidity that carries flavors of cranberry, cherry, and a woody cedar note that carries through the very long finish. Tasty. $??

2005 Stellekaya Winery "Orion" Cabernet Sauvignon.
Intense, inky ruby in color, this wine has an intruiging nose of piney, savory, almost chewy aromas that include black pepper, dirt, and a hint of green bell pepper. On the palate the wine is classic cherry, cedar, and pipe tobacco flavors, with a nice balance and hints of espresso on the moderate finish. Complex, nuanced, and yummy. $7-14.

2003 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon.
Poured out of a 1.5 liter bottle, this wine is bright medium ruby colored in the glass, with aromas of cedar, cherry, and fresh pine. In the mouth it is beautifully textured, perfectly balanced and juicy with flavors of cherry, sandalwood, plum, and hints of sawdust among the light tannins that emerge as the wine finishes long and lovely. $25. Where to buy?

2005 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette" Shiraz.
Medium garnet in color, this wine has a bright, fruity nose of pure cassis. In the mouth it is beatifully dry and smooth with deep earth, leather, and cassis flavors tinged by herbs. The finish is long, lean and resonant. $21. Where to buy?

2004 Kanonkop Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon.
Medium garnet in color, this wine has a nose of cherry, tobacco and espresso aromas. In the mouth it offers primary flavors of espresso, cherry, and tobacco, knt together with fine grained tannins and nice acidity. The wine has an elegance that is exemplified by its long finish. $25.

2005 Kanonkop Wine Estate "Paul Sauer" Cabernet Sauvignon.
Dark garnet in color, this wine has a rich nose of cedar and black cherry aromas. On the tongue it is a velvet caress of black cherry, earth and tobacco flavors. The tannnins are soft and beautifully structured, balanced perfectly with the wines acidity and weight. The overall quality of this wine that sticks in the mind is its smoothness. Outstanding. $40. Where to buy?

2006 Cederberg Private Cellars Shiraz.
Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine has a luscious nose of blackberry fruit with a spicy, meaty undertone that leans the aromas distinctly towards the savory end of the spectrum. In the mouth it is bright and round and full of cassis and blackberry flavors with a hint of leather on the finish. Delicious. $25. Where to buy?

2006 L'Avenir" Grand Vin" Pinotage.
Inky garnet in color, this wine has a very pretty nose of floral and ripe plum aromas. In the mouth it offers rich flavors of cherry, cocoa powder, raspberry and cranberry all swirling around on silk textures. Faint tannins, nice acidit, and a long beautiful finish round out one of the best Pinotages I have ever had. $30-50.

2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale" Shiraz. $30-50.
2007 Mischa Estate "Not yet named" Bordeaux Blend. $N/A
2004 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Shiraz. $50. Where to buy?
2006 Stark-Condé "Three Pines" Shiraz. $35.


RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9
2006 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "Theta" Shiraz. $50
2005 Kleinood (Tamboerskloof Syrah/Viognier) Shiraz. $7-14
2006 Stark-Condé "Stellenbosch" Cabernet Sauvignon. $25
2006 Stellekaya Winery Shiraz. $7-14
2005 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Grand Classique" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Gravel Quarr" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more
2003 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Les Pleurs" Shiraz. $30-50
2006 Painted Wolf Wines "Borg Family" Shiraz. $14-30
2007 Painted Wolf Wines "Cape Blend" Shiraz. $14-30
2007 Painted Wolf Wines Pinotage. $14-30
2007 Painted Wolf Wines Shiraz. $??
2004 Morgenster Estate Merlot. $??
2004 Morgenster Estate "Lourens River Valley" Merlot. $??
2006 Morgenster Estate "Tosca" Sangiovese. $??
2002 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more
2003 Vergelegen "Red" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more
2004 Vergelegen "V" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more
2004 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2005 Dombeya Wines "Samara" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Mvemve Raats "De Compostella" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more
2007 Waboomsrivier Wine Cellar Pinotage. $5
2007 Iona Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50
2006 Kanonkop Wine Estate Pinotage. $14-30
2006 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Ameena" Shiraz. $??
2005 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Cabernet Sauvignon. $??
2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Teen Die Hoog - Cape Winemakers Guild" Shiraz. $??
2004 Beyerskloof "Field Blend" Cape Blend. $??
2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Stork" Shiraz. $??
2006 Ataraxia Wines "Serenity" Shiraz. $??
2005 Luddite Wines Shiraz. $??
2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock Red Blend" Shiraz. $30-50
2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale Gravity" Bordeaux Blend. $50 or more
2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Scarborough" Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7
2006 L'Avenir Pinotage. $14-30
2005 Ken Forrester Wines "The Gypsy" Shiraz. $30-50
2004 Jordan Winery "Cobblers Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9
2007 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "The Raptor Post" Shiraz. $50
2005 Rudera Wines Shiraz. $??
2006 Stark-Condé "Stellenbosch" Shiraz. $25
2006 Stark-Condé "Three Pines" Cabernet Sauvignon. $35
2006 Stellekaya Winery "Hercules" Sangiovese. $7-14
2004 Stellekaya Winery "Cape Cross" Merlot. $7-14
2006 Ernie Els Wines "Cirrus" Shiraz. $30-50
2006 Ernie Els Wines "Engelbrecht Els" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Jonty's Ducks" Shiraz. $14-30
2007 Painted Wolf Wines "Swartland" Merlot. $30-50
2007 Painted Wolf Wines Rhone Blend. $??
2006 La Motte "Pierneef" Shiraz. $30-50
2007 Graham Beck Wines "Gamekeeper's Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2006 Graham Beck Wines "The Joshua" Shiraz. $30-50
2005 Scali Pinotage. $24
2006 Steenberg Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50
2006 Beaumont Wines Mourvedre. $30-50
2006 Beaumont Wines Pinotage. $14-30
2006 Barton Vineyards Shiraz. $??
2005 Uva Mira Vineyards "Vineyard Selection" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2005 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2006 Meerlust Estate Pinot Noir. $30-50
2004 Glenelly Cellars "Glenelly Hill" Shiraz. $??
2006 Dombeya Wines Shiraz. $14-30
2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Shiraz. $7-14
2007 Fairview "Caldera" Grenache. $??
2006 Fairview "Cyril Back" Shiraz. $??
2006 Fairview "Eenzaamheid (Solitude)" Shiraz. $??
2007 Fairview "Primo" Pinotage. $??
2005 Waterford Estate "Kevin Arnold" Shiraz. $35
2005 Waterford Estate "The Jem" Cabernet Sauvignon. $100
2006 RAKA "Biography" Shiraz. $30-50
2006 RAKA "Figurehead" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2004 RAKA "Quinary" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2005 Iona Vineyards "The Gunnar" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Pinot Noir. $25
2007 Southern Right Pinotage. $14-30
2006 Bouchard Finlayson "Hannibal" Sangiovese. $30-50
2006 Mischa Estate Shiraz. $14-30
1983 Delheim" Grand Reserve" Bordeaux Blend. $??
2007 Kanonkop Wine Estate "Kadette" Pinotage. $7-14
2006 Cederberg Private Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon. $??
2005 Beyerskloof "Synergy Cape Blend" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2005 Hartenberg Estate Shiraz. $30-50
2004 Hartenberg Estate "The Mackenzie" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2007 Raats Family Wines Cabernet Franc. $30-50
2008 The Winery of Good Hope Pinotage. $7-14
2007 The Winery of Good Hope" Radford Dale" Shiraz. $??
2006 L'Avenir Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2008 L'Avenir" Rosé de Pinotage" Pinotage. $7-14
2006 L'Avenir" Stellenbosch Classic" Bordeaux Blend. $??
2005 Ken Forrester Wines Shiraz. $14-30

RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5
2005 Rudera Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. $??
2006 Rudera Wines "Lola" Syrah. $??
2005 Mulderbosch Vineyards Shiraz. $50 or more
2004 Simonsig Wine Estate "Frans Malan" Pinotage. $14-30
2007 Simonsig Wine Estate "Kaapse Vonkel Brut Rose" Pinotage. $30-50
2004 Simonsig Wine Estate "Labyrinth" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2005 Simonsig Wine Estate "Merindol" Shiraz. $30-50
2002 Simonsig Wine Estate "Tiara" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2005 Stellekaya Winery Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14
2006 Stellekaya Winery Merlot. $7-14
2004 Ernie Els Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more
2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50
2004 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Camissa" Shiraz. $14-30
2005 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Green Duck - The Duke" Cabernet Franc. $14-30
2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Pinotage. $??
2005 La Motte "Millenium" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 La Motte Shiraz. $14-30
2008 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Bio Rose" Merlot. $7-14
2003 Graham Beck Wines "The Ridge" Shiraz. $30-50
2005 Graham Beck Wines "The William" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Horse Mountain Wines Pinotage. $14-30
2005 Scali Shiraz. $35
2003 Springfield Estate "The Work of Time" Merlot. $30-50
2006 Springfield Estate "Whole Berry" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Steenberg Vineyards Merlot. $30-50
2004 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Shiraz. $??
2005 Uva Mira Vineyards "Cellar Selection" Merlot. $14-30
2006 M'hudi Merlot. $??
2005 Vergelegen "Mill Race" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Vergelegen Shiraz. $30-50
2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14
2007 Fairview "Pinotage Viognier" Pinotage. $??
2007 Fairview Shiraz. $??
2006 Lammershoek Winery Pinotage. $14-30
2007 RAKA Pinotage. $??
2006 Golden Kaan Limited Pinotage. $7-14
2006 Slanghoek Cellar "Private Selection" Pinotage. $7-14
2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Galpin Peak" Pinot Noir. $30-50
2006 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Shiraz. $14-30
2005 Mischa Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Muratie Wine Estate Pinot Noir. $??
2006 Cederberg Private Cellars "Cederberger" Merlot. $??
2007 Beyerskloof Pinotage. $7-14
2007 Beyerskloof "Reserve" Pinotage. $14-30
2005 Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2005 Hartenberg Estate Pinotage. $14-30
2005 Hartenberg Estate Merlot. $??
2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Vinum" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2005 Ken Forrester Wines "The Three Halves" Rhone Blend. $??

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5
2003 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "Theta" Shiraz. $50
2006 Simonsig Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14
2004 Simonsig Wine Estate Shiraz. $14-30
2006 La Motte Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Morgenster Estate "Nabucco" Nebbiolo. $??
2005 Graham Beck Wines Shiraz. $14-30
2007 Beaumont Wines "Raoul's Old Basket Press" Tinta Barocca. $7-14
2004 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Cabernet Sauvignon. $??
2005 Vergelegen Merlot. $30-50
2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Merlot. $7-14
2007 Fairview Mourvedre. $??
2006 Waterford Estate "Pecan Stream Pebble Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon. $29
2006 Lammershoek Winery Shiraz. $30-50
2006 Lammershoek Winery Zinfandel. $14-30
2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines Pinotage. $15
2006 Muratie Wine Estate Shiraz. $??
2007 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Pinot Noir. $30-50
2006 Jordan Winery Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2006 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Syrah. $??

RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8
2008 Teddy Hall Wines Syrah. $??
2005 Simonsig Wine Estate Pinotage. $14-30
2006 Ayama Wines Pinotage. $??
2005 Meerlust Estate Merlot. $30-50
2007 Fairview Alicante Bouschet. $??
2004 RAKA Merlot. $30-50
2006 RAKA "Spliced" Merlot. $14-30
2006 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2007 Mischa Estate Merlot. $14-30
2005 Hartenberg Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. $7-14
2006 L'Avenir Cabernet Franc. $14-30
2006 L'Avenir Merlot. $14-30
2006 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30
2006 Jordan Winery Merlot. $30-50

RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 7.5 AND 8
2004 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Faithful Hound" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
2006 Springfield Estate "Firefinch Ripe Red" Merlot. $7-14
2006 M'hudi Pinotage. $??
2007 Jason's Hill Private Cellar Pinotage. $5
2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Pinotage. $5-7
2007 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Bordeaux Blend. $??
2006 Fairview Tannat. $??
2006 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7

RED WINES WITH A SCORE UNDER 7.5
2007 Rudera Wines "Lola" Syrah. $??
NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Shiraz. $5
2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines "Cape Blend" Pinotage. $7-14
2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines Shiraz. $5-7
2006 Bon Cap Organic Wines Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7


[11/17/2008, 04:08]

The Glamour of Arrogance

how to buy wine
I don?t know what it is about Sunday. Where once there was a family dinner, now there is solitary reflection in front of an empty screen. From the perspective of practice, when I look around these days, what is it about Italian wine that seems to have become an endless catwalk of the richest, biggest and most obvious? Standing in line, waiting to talk to a wine buyer last week, I was thumbing through a pile of wine reviews and noticed how the wines that were getting all the accolades ( read: 94 points and above) seemed to be these shorn up, beef-caked, tag-team wines that more resemble porn stars than classics. Who is putting these wines in their cellars, let alone their goblets?

how to buy wineWhen did the search for the Shangri-La of wine go so off track? The history of Italian wine shows us that it was built up over the ages by the monastics, who took care to keep the light burning through some dark and dreary days. Nothing so glamorous then, working the fields in the dark, at 4:00 AM in the biting cold. Year after year. With no love, save the Divine Love, to keep the solitary worker in the field, hopeful for a better day. Hope and faith. Not arrogance.

how to buy wineI went through a wine collection yesterday, one that has been in the works for 30 years. In it many of the bottles were created by people that are long gone. Some of the newer wines, one in particular, A Super Tuscan from a producer in Montalcino, struck me. I don?t know what the owner will do with the wine. It has too much power to be enjoyed. It?s too noisy, wants to lead but doesn?t really need a partner to dance with. I?d say to put it in the ?drink now? bin, but I?m not sure it will ever be ready to drink.

I spied a few California wines, some which were blockbusters in their day, now shuffling off to the veteran?s home, no fire left in them. Maybe that is where these over-promising and under-delivering Super Tuscans will end up. Which seems like a waste of the Tuscan land which wrought them from the ground.

how to buy wineWhether it is Tuscany or Campania, Sicily or Friuli, Italian wines are at a crossroads. They have fashioned themselves to be these worldly wines in a universe of other worldly wines, all competing for the attention of the same buyer. And those buyers are looking for the next big thing, whether it is an Ovid from Napa or a Mollydooker or God knows what. Why? When did Ferrari seek to emulate General Motors? Or Ducati chase after Harley Davidson? Still, Italian wine chases after the Shangri La wine crowd.

And if an Italian wine becomes a landmark, say a Sassicaia or a Bric dël Fiasc, does that really lead them (and the rest of us) into the Promised Land? How does it go, for what shall it profit a man, if he shall gain the whole world, and lose his own soul?

how to buy wineAnd if the Italian wine succeeds in becoming the king pin of all wines, then what? Defending a territory that for all purposes doesn?t exist in Italy? That would be the fitting punishment for succeeding in looking away from all that is unique and indigenously wonderful in many of the wines of Italy. It?s not too late to turn back, some of the young winemakers have looked beyond marketing and their Upper West Side flats to embrace their soil. Not glam, but sans arrogance. We can only hope. And work to help those who see this as a time to return to their winemaking as an act of selflessness and true vocation. Sounds almost ecclesiastic. Oh, wouldn?t it be loverly?

Then all we?d have to do would be to figure out what to do with all these monstrous wines lying around.
how to buy wine



[11/15/2008, 03:31]

WBW 51: Baked Goods

Well it’s Wine Blogging Friday for me this month, but hopefully I can sneak into the summary. The theme for Wine Blogging Wednesday this month comes by way of Philly-based wine blogger Joe who goes by 1WineDude online. And it’s a complete departure from our basic formula of wine variety, region or something a bit quirky. In fact, he has challenged us to actually drink madeirized — or intentionally heated and/or oxidized — wines. This style of wine is found in Madeira, Australia?s Rutherglen Tokays and Sherry. But Joe was also mindful that these wines might not be available everywhere so he included all fortified wines including Porto for his “Baked Goods” theme.

how to buy wineI knew at some point there would be an occasion to write about Sherry, a wine I’ve had over the years but didn’t really get into until a visit in June of 2007 to El Puerto de Santa María in the so-called Sherry Triangle. As a guest of Osborne, I visited their winery and tasted Fino literally pulled from the solera. But the most surprising part of this visit was a dinner with only Sherry served. I knew the starter would be easy with a Fino or Amontillado and the dessert course would be matched with a sweet Sherry of some sort but the entree would be a challenge. That’s when I was introduced to Oloroso which was a revelation at the time. But the best wine that night was a sweet Sherry made from a very old solera and the Pedro Ximénez grape. I rated it a 99, the only wine I have ever rated that high.

But before I dig my notes out for that wine let me flash forward to this week when I was looking for a Sherry to review for this tasting. As someone now a bit more educated about Sherry, I know that Fino is best consumed before 6 months from it’s bottling date. Most every Sherry producer has some sort of bottling code that indicates the day and year of bottling. Many times these are cryptic with Roman numerals used for the year but Osborne uses a more understandable code. So while I am continually disappointed in the stores here in the Twin Cities where Fino is “fresh” at 9-10 months past bottling, I was surprised to see a bottle of Osborne Pedro Ximénez “1827″ on the shelf with a bottling date of  June 23, 2007… just 5 days before my visit to the winery.

For those not familiar with how Sherry is produced, a quick aside before my tasting notes. The production of Sherry is very old, in it’s current form since the the Moors ruled Spain some 1,200 years ago. Some, according to this piece in Wikipedia, track this style of wine back to the city of Shiraz in modern day Iran, literally the cradle of viticulture in antiquity. The production of Sherry starts with grapes grown in very chalky soils around Jerez, Spain from Palomino or Pedro Ximenez. In the latter case, the grapes are dried for two days before pressing and fermentation begins to concentrate their sugars. After primary fermentation, the wine is fortified with brandy to levels of alcohol determined by the style of the final wine. Fino or Amontillado are fortified to 15 degrees alcohol so that flor yeast can survive to complete the wine. Oloroso is fortified to 17-18 degrees alcohol to prevent the growth of flor and the wine is primarily shaped by oxidation in the solera.

The solera is a system of large barrels between 3 and 9 in number usually stacked in a pyramid shape. This allows for the young wine to be introduced at the top of the solera to fill the lower barrels where the finished wine is drawn for bottling. Sherry is aged in barrel for a minimum of three years but this time in barrel is much longer for more highly prized and rare Sherries. Through reduction and oxidation the resulting wine gains complexity and since all the barrels are neutral, no aromas or flavors from the oak. This is a truly unique and old school style of wine that I hope more wine lovers will try.

Tasting Notes:

Bodegas Osborne
, Pedro Ximenez “1827″ Sherry ($21) - Mahogany in color with powerful aromas of fig, molasses, espresso, hazelnuts and some heat from the alcohol. Rich and sweet in the mouth with fig, maple syrup, cocoa and caramel flavors finishing very long with enough acidity that balances the luscious sweetness. Decadent, delicious and an excellent value at around $20 a bottle. Also very nice poured over vanilla ice cream as it’s own dessert.

17% ABV
Screwtop closure
Rating: 4 out of 5 stars

Bodegas Osborne, Pedro Ximenez “Viejo” Sherry ($100/sample tasted at the winery) - Almost black in color with very complex aromas of fig, dates, espresso, dark chocolate, molasses and a hint of baked orange. In the mouth, very rich and layered fig, caramel, baked orange, spice and nut flavors mingle with quite a bit of sweetness that is balanced by acidity. This wine has a finish that seems to go on forever. One of the most extraordinary tastings of my life and as close to a perfect wine I have ever encountered. Buy it, if you can afford it.

16% ABV
Natural cork closure
Rating: 5 out of 5 stars

Thanks to Joe, the 1WineDude, for getting me back into this style of wine. I’m going to continue to explore Sherry both here and on my podcast… and might even post those recordings made in Spain some 17 months ago.

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[11/13/2008, 06:35]

Thailand: Winemaking in the Tropics -Siam Winery

Siam Winery is no tiny concern. With 1.2 million liters of tank capacity for fine wine, and twice that for the profitable wine cooler venture, they are the big boys in the region. Their 72 acres of grapes are spread over several locations, including one parcel that is actually planted among canals.

The image of a boat paddling through the Floating Vineyards is only slightly upstaged by the shot of the elephants in the vineyards at Hua Hin Hills. This is certainly not any wine country m