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This really tickles my funny bone. Deidre Woollard (luxist.com) writes:
We may all be cutting back, but at the the White House dinner Friday night for foreign leaders to discuss the global financial crisis, the meal was anything but spare.
The menu for around 24 global leaders gathered in the White House State Dining Room included, according to the AP, fruitwood-smoked quail? with quince gastrique; quinoa risotto?; thyme?-roasted rack of lamb?; tomato?, fennel? and eggplant? fondue?; a salad? course of endive?, baked Brie and walnuts?; and a pear torte. What's raising some eyebrows though is one of the wine selections, the Shafer Cabernet Hillside Select 2003, which runs for around $300 a bottle, if you can find it. This wine was served with the main course will more modest wines such as the Landmark Chardonnay Damaris Reserve? 2006 (around $40 a bottle, served with the appetizer) and the Chandon Étoile Rosé? sparkling wine? (about $30 a bottle, served with dessert) rounded out the rest of the meal.
The President pays for his own groceries in the White House but state dinners such as this one are paid for with taxpayer dollars. It is perhaps some comfort in this case? that at least two of those attending: President Bush and French President Nicolas Sarkozy are said to be teetotalers. Others in attendance included Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd; Canadian Prime Minister Stephen Harper; Chinese President Hu Jintao; German Chancellor Angela Merkel; and British Prime Minister Gordon Brown.
I went to South Africa to learn about South African wine, and the primary way for me to do that is to taste. So taste I did -- probably more than 500 wines by the end of the week -- spending two full days going from booth to booth at the Cape Wine 2008 expo trying to taste a wide cross section of South African wine while at the same time making sure to hit some of the producers I knew were among South Africa's best.
The end result? Scores for more than 350 wines, and a very rapid education indeed. I got a sense of which varietals seemed to shine (Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Bordeaux Blends, and some Syrahs) and which were struggling to find proper expression (Chenin Blanc, Pinotage, Merlot, among others). I also began to get a sense of the various wine growing regions and the range of styles that winemakers were using.
I've provided my detailed conclusions in a previous post, which I encourage you to read if you haven't followed the entire series of my posts from South Africa. But to summarize, South Africa falls somewhere between up-and-coming and world-class. There are some excellent wines being made in the country (along with a lot of just mediocre stuff), but few wines that I found to be knock-my-socks-off good.
Having said that, however, South Africa seems to me to be one of the major sources of wine values left on the planet. As you can see by some of the prices with my notes below, there are some tremendous wines to be had in the $20-30 price range, at a level of quality that would result in prices at least twice that high were the wines from Napa, for instance.
In addition to my usual lineup of scores, I have included tasting notes for some of the wines that I found most interesting or compelling, and provided links to purchase some of my favorites. Many of these wines are sadly not yet imported into the United States, or imported very selectively, so I apologize in advance for any you may get excited about only to find that they are not available to you.
Without further ado, here are my scores and tasting notes for the more than 350 wines I tasted at the Cape Wine 2008 event, which it took me more than a month to write up here. Please note that the price ranges are rough guidelines provided by the producers, not the actual range of pricing for a given wine.
White Wines
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5
2007 Sequillo Cellars White Blend. Light gold in the glass, this unusual blend of Chenin Blanc, Grenache Blanc, Viognier, and Roussanne has a surprising nose of white peaches, star fruit, and greenish tropical fruit aromas that are tough to pin down. In the mouth the wine is nothing short of gorgeous. Lovely, silky texture carries flavors of peaches and honeysuckle that are balanced perfectly with a mineral acidity so that the whole wine resonates through a long finish that leaves a simple, lowercase, "wow" at the end of my scribbled notes from the day. $35. Where to buy?
2007 Ken Forrester Wines "T Noble Late Harvest" Chenin Blanc. Amber gold in the glass, this wine has an explosive nose of apricots and honey that you can smell from three feet away. On the tongue it is liquid satin gold, draping itself like a discarded negligee over the palate and oozing flavors of orange blossom, apricots and honey. Oozing might not be the right word, however, as this wine has amazing acidity that puckers the cheeks and juices the tastebuds until they cry out for more. Incredibly limited production means that this is made in quantities approaching 50 cases each year. $55. Where to buy?
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2007 Kleinood "Tamboerskloof" Viognier. Pale gold in the glass, this wine has a very mineral nose of peaches, gold cream and wet granite aromas. In the mouth it is bright and luscious with great acidity and flavors of white peaches crushed minerals and hints of white flowers and citrus zest. Delicious and well balanced with none of the clunky characteristics that are so often found in New World Viognier. $5-7.
2008 Graham Beck Wines "Gamekeeper's Reserve" Chenin Blanc. Pale gold in the glass this wine has a nose of freshly cut pears and apples. In the mouth it is bright and lean with flavors of pears, caramel apples, and hints of cinnamon. Remarkable and delicious. $30-50.
2007 Ataraxia Wines Chardonnay. Light green-gold in the glass, this wine has a pungent nose of warm leather and cold cream aromas. In the mouth it is crystalline with acidity which serves up mouth puckering flavors of lemon curd, lemon zest and grapefruit juice -- a concoction of refreshing, delicious flavors that swirls through a long finish. Outstanding. $38. Where to buy?
2007 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Anais" Chardonnay. Light gold in the glass, this wine smells of cold cream and lemon custard, making my mouth water before I even taste it. On the palate it is firm and weighty, smooth and bright with lemon curd, cold cream, and a strong mineral quality that is as surprising as it is delicious. $30. Where to buy?
2007 Sadie Family Wines "Palladius" White Blend. Light gold in color, this wine has a nose of wet granite, clover honey, and lemon blossom scents. In the mouth it is angular and explosively bright with juicy lemon-flavored acidity and lean mineral qualities that mellow into cold cream and soft texture as the wine finishes lovely and long. $40. Where to buy?
2007 Ken Forrester Wines "The FMC" Chenin Blanc. Light gold in color, this wine has a gorgeous nose of white flowers, honey, and fresh, ripe pear aromas. In the mouth it is crisp and just slightly off-dry, with lightly sweet flavors of poached pear and flowers that linger in a long, long finish. Likely a beautiful cheese wine. $49. Where to buy?
2007 Ses'fikile Wines "Matriarch" Sauvignon Blanc. $??. 2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvignon Blanc. $30. Where to buy? 2007 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14. Where to buy?
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2006 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Barrel Fermented" Chardonnay. $50 or more 2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards "Steen op Hout" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2006 Simonsig Wine Estate "Kaapse Vonkel" Pinot Noir. $14-30 2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Chenin Blanc. $7-14 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "The Weir" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Painted Wolf Wines "Castle View" Viognier. $30-50 2007 La Motte Chardonnay. $14-30 2006 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bateleur" Chardonnay. $50 or more 2008 Graham Beck Wines "Pheasants Run" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2003 Graham Beck Wines "Cuvee Clive Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $?? 2005 Springfield Estate "Wild Yeast" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Vergelegen "Reserve" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 NV Quando Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay. $22 2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Viognier. $14-30 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Bukettraube. $?? 2006 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Beyerskloof Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2007 Hartenberg Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2007 Hartenberg Estate Weisser Riesling. $7-14 2007 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock White Blend" Chenin Blanc. $30-50 2004 Cape Point Vineyards Sauvingon Blanc. $?? 2005 Cape Point Vineyards "Isliedh" Sauvingon Blanc. $?? 2007 L'Avenir Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 L'Avenir Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Ken Forrester Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 2005 Mulderbosch Vineyards Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Mulderbosch Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 Simonsig Wine Estate "Sunbird" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Green Duck - The Dutchess" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2008 Painted Wolf Wines White Blend. $?? 2008 La Motte "Pierneef" Sauvignon Blanc. $30-50 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Limestone Hill" Chardonnay. $14-30 2005 De Wetshof Estate "D'Honneur" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Graham Beck Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2005 Graham Beck Wines "Brut Blanc de Blancs Sparkling Wine" Chardonnay. $?? NV Graham Beck Wines "Bliss Demi-Sec Sparkling Wine". $?? 2005 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Springfield Estate "Special Cuvee" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Klein Constantia Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Steenberg Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Barton Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2007 Uva Mira Vineyards "Single Vineyard" Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 Vergelegen Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Vergelegen Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Vergelegen Semillon. $30-50 2007 Franschhoek Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $7-14 2008 Waterford Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $20 2007 Lammershoek Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette Blanc" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 NV Iona Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Southern Right Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Crocodile's Lair / Kaaimansgat" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Chenin Blanc. $?? 2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Elanor" Chardonnay. $30-50 2008 Ataraxia Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Gewurztraminer. $14-30 2008 Paul Cluver Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Land of Hope" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2006 Cape Point Vineyards Semillon. $14-30 2008 Cape Point Vineyards "Stonehaven" Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $5-7 2007 Jordan Winery Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 Jordan Winery "Nine Yards" Chardonnay. $30-50
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2007 Rudera Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 2007 Simonsig Wine Estate Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Simonsig Wine Estate Chenin Blanc. $7-14 NV Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Brut Methode Cap Classique" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 La Motte Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Lesca" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Springfield Estate "Life From Stone" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Klein Constantia Estate "Rhine Riesling" Riesling. $14-30 2007 Steenberg Vineyards Semillon. $30-50 2006 Barton Vineyards Chenin Blanc. $?? 2006 Ses'fikile Wines "Rain Song" Chenin Blanc. $?? 2008 Uva Mira Vineyards "Cellar Selection" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 M'hudi Sauvignon Blanc. $16 2007 Meerlust Estate Chardonnay. $30-50 2007 Dombeya Wines Chardonnay. $7-14 2008 Franschhoek Vineyards Chardonnay. $7-14 2007 Fairview Viognier. $?? 2008 Waterford Estate "Pecan Stream" Chenin Blanc. $12 2007 Waterford Estate Chardonnay. $24 2005 Bon Cap Organic Wines "MCC" Chardonnay. $7-14 2007 Jason's Hill Private Cellar Viognier. $5 2007 Iona Vineyards Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Blanc de Mer" Weisser Riesling. $7-14 2007 Bouchard Finlayson "Sans Barrique" Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Bouchard Finlayson "Walker Bay" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Mischa Estate "Eventide Cellar" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Cederberg Private Cellars "Ghost Corner David Nieuwoudt" Semillon. $?? 2007 The Winery of Good Hope "Vinum" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2007 The Winery of Good Hope" Radford Dale" Viognier. $?? 2008 L'Avenir Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2008 Ken Forrester Wines "Petit" Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2007 Jordan Winery Chardonnay. $14-30 2008 Jordan Winery Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 2008 De Wetshof Estate "Estate Bon Vallon" Chardonnay. $14-30 2007 Scali Chenin Blanc. $24 2008 Dombeya Wines Sauvignon Blanc. $5-7 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Sauvignon Blanc. $5 NV Quando Chenin Blanc. $14-30 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 2008 Beyerskloof Chenin Blanc. $5-7
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 RAKA Chenin Blanc. $??
WHITE WINES SCORING BETWEEN 7.5 AND 8 2008 Teddy Hall Wines Chenin Blanc. $?? 7.75 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Chardonnay. $5 7.75 2008 Jordan Winery "Bradgate" Sauvignon Blanc. $?? 7.75
WHITE WINES WITH A SCORE UNDER 7.5 2008 Springfield Estate "Firefinch" Sauvignon Blanc. $7-14 2008 Barton Vineyards White Blend. $?? 2008 Bon Cap Organic Wines Viognier. $7-14 2008 RAKA Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30 2005 Wedderwill Wine Estate Sauvignon Blanc. $14-30
Pink Wines
PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2008 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Tortoise Hill" Pinotage Rosé. $7-14 Where to buy?
2006 Graham Beck Wines Brut Rosé Sparkling Wine (Pinot Noir). Pale rose pink in the glass with medium bubbles, this wine has a nose of bright citrus and warm brioche aromas. In the mouth it has a very fine mousse foam with beautiful flavors of rosehips, melon, and floral notes that creep in towards the back of the throat. Delicious. $20. Where to buy?
PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2008 Beyerskloof Pinotage Rosé. Pale salmon in color, this wine has a nose of wet leaves, rosehips, and orange peel aromas. In the mouth it is tangy and lively with acidity that wraps around flavors of orange peel, raspberry, and rosehips. Crisp, clean, and delightful, this wine makes me wonder if maybe the destiny of Pinotage is to make pink wines. $10. Where to buy?
PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8.5 AND 9 2008 Graham Beck Wines Malbec Rosé. $7-14 2008 Golden Kaan Limited Pinotage Rosé. $7-14
PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8.5 2008 Mulderbosch Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé. $14-30
PINK WINES SCORING BETWEEN 8 AND 8.5 NV Bon Cap Organic Wines "The Ruins" Shiraz Rosé. $5
PINK WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 8 2008 RAKA Rosé. $7-14 2008 Jordan Winery "Chameleon" Shiraz Rosé. $14-30
Red Wines
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9.5 2005 Sequillo Cellars Red Blend. Inky garnet in color, this blend of Syrah, Grenache and Mourvedre has a beautiful dark nose of mulberry, earth, and cassis aromas. In the mouth it is the wine equivalent of Valentino in his prime -- utterly seductive, dark, and just exotic enough to be mysterious. Rich, textured, complex flavors of cassis, mulberry, and other dark fruits, juicy with great acidity, linger into a long finish where the faintest hint of tannins emerge, but only for those paying close attention. And it's hard to pay attention when all this wine makes you want to do is swallow, swallow, and swallow some more. $35. Where to buy?
2006 Sadie Family Wines "Columella" Red Rhone Blend. Dark ruby in the glass, this blend of Syrah and Mourvedre has a nose of bright cassis, blackberry, and grape aromas. In the mouth it is...there's no other way to put it....rockin' with flavor: cassis, blackberry, black cherry, and other rich ripe dark fruits swirl in a concoction that is shot through with a dry minerality and deep complex texture that evokes some of the best wines of the Northern Rhone. If I am reading my sloppy tasting note correctly, I believe the finish was described in the moment as "hot damn." $85. Where to buy?
RED WINES SCORING BETWEEN 9 AND 9.5 2007 De Wetshof Estate "Danie de Wet Nature in Concert" Pinot Noir $7-14 Medium garnet in the glass, this wine has a bright nose of pomegranate and cranberry aromas with hints of herbs. In the mouth it is juicy and bright with great acidity that carries flavors of cranberry, cherry, and a woody cedar note that carries through the very long finish. Tasty. $??
2005 Stellekaya Winery "Orion" Cabernet Sauvignon. Intense, inky ruby in color, this wine has an intruiging nose of piney, savory, almost chewy aromas that include black pepper, dirt, and a hint of green bell pepper. On the palate the wine is classic cherry, cedar, and pipe tobacco flavors, with a nice balance and hints of espresso on the moderate finish. Complex, nuanced, and yummy. $7-14.
2003 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. Poured out of a 1.5 liter bottle, this wine is bright medium ruby colored in the glass, with aromas of cedar, cherry, and fresh pine. In the mouth it is beautifully textured, perfectly balanced and juicy with flavors of cherry, sandalwood, plum, and hints of sawdust among the light tannins that emerge as the wine finishes long and lovely. $25. Where to buy?
2005 Lammershoek Winery "Roulette" Shiraz. Medium garnet in color, this wine has a bright, fruity nose of pure cassis. In the mouth it is beatifully dry and smooth with deep earth, leather, and cassis flavors tinged by herbs. The finish is long, lean and resonant. $21. Where to buy?
2004 Kanonkop Wine Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Medium garnet in color, this wine has a nose of cherry, tobacco and espresso aromas. In the mouth it offers primary flavors of espresso, cherry, and tobacco, knt together with fine grained tannins and nice acidity. The wine has an elegance that is exemplified by its long finish. $25.
2005 Kanonkop Wine Estate "Paul Sauer" Cabernet Sauvignon. Dark garnet in color, this wine has a rich nose of cedar and black cherry aromas. On the tongue it is a velvet caress of black cherry, earth and tobacco flavors. The tannnins are soft and beautifully structured, balanced perfectly with the wines acidity and weight. The overall quality of this wine that sticks in the mind is its smoothness. Outstanding. $40. Where to buy?
2006 Cederberg Private Cellars Shiraz. Medium to dark garnet in color, this wine has a luscious nose of blackberry fruit with a spicy, meaty undertone that leans the aromas distinctly towards the savory end of the spectrum. In the mouth it is bright and round and full of cassis and blackberry flavors with a hint of leather on the finish. Delicious. $25. Where to buy?
2006 L'Avenir" Grand Vin" Pinotage. Inky garnet in color, this wine has a very pretty nose of floral and ripe plum aromas. In the mouth it offers rich flavors of cherry, cocoa powder, raspberry and cranberry all swirling around on silk textures. Faint tannins, nice acidit, and a long beautiful finish round out one of the best Pinotages I have ever had. $30-50.
2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale" Shiraz. $30-50. 2007 Mischa Estate "Not yet named" Bordeaux Blend. $N/A 2004 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards Shiraz. $50. Where to buy? 2006 Stark-Condé "Three Pines" Shiraz. $35.
RED WINES WITH A SCORE AROUND 9 2006 Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards "Theta" Shiraz. $50 2005 Kleinood (Tamboerskloof Syrah/Viognier) Shiraz. $7-14 2006 Stark-Condé "Stellenbosch" Cabernet Sauvignon. $25 2006 Stellekaya Winery Shiraz. $7-14 2005 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Grand Classique" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2006 Glen Carlou Vineyards "Gravel Quarr" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2003 Avondale Bio-LOGIC & Organic Wines "Les Pleurs" Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Painted Wolf Wines "Borg Family" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines "Cape Blend" Shiraz. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Pinotage. $14-30 2007 Painted Wolf Wines Shiraz. $?? 2004 Morgenster Estate Merlot. $?? 2004 Morgenster Estate "Lourens River Valley" Merlot. $?? 2006 Morgenster Estate "Tosca" Sangiovese. $?? 2002 Springfield Estate "Methode Ancienne" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2003 Vergelegen "Red" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2004 Vergelegen "V" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2004 Meerlust Estate "Rubicon" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50 2005 Dombeya Wines "Samara" Cabernet Sauvignon. $14-30 2006 Mvemve Raats "De Compostella" Cabernet Sauvignon. $50 or more 2007 Waboomsrivier Wine Cellar Pinotage. $5 2007 Iona Vineyards Shiraz. $30-50 2006 Kanonkop Wine Estate Pinotage. $14-30 2006 Vins D'Orrance "Cuvee Ameena" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Cederberg Private Cellars "Five Generations" Cabernet Sauvignon. $?? 2008 Cederberg Private Cellars "Teen Die Hoog - Cape Winemakers Guild" Shiraz. $?? 2004 Beyerskloof "Field Blend" Cape Blend. $?? 2005 Hartenberg Estate "The Stork" Shiraz. $?? 2006 Ataraxia Wines "Serenity" Shiraz. $?? 2005 Luddite Wines Shiraz. $?? 2006 The Winery of Good Hope "Black Rock Red Blend" Shiraz. $30-50 2008 The Winery of Good Hope "Radford Dale Gravity" Bordeaux Blend. $50 or more 2006 Cape Point Vineyards "Scarborough" Cabernet Sauvignon. $5-7 2006 L'Avenir Pinotage. $14-30 2005 Ken Forrester Wines "The Gypsy" Shiraz. $30-50 2004 Jordan Winery "Cobblers Hill" Cabernet Sauvignon. $30-50
There's still plenty of fire left in the belly of old gnarly Grenache vines in Calatayud, Spain. These old vines manifest their destiny in Garnacha de Fuego 2007, imported by Jorge Ordoñez, and sold here in Tennessee for well under $10, and in some areas of the country nearer to $5.
This is one of those outstanding inexpensive red wines that make you wonder why some wines cost so much. Unencumbered by wood aging, it's so very pure and drinkable, yet unlike similarly priced junk wine, the wine equivalent to junk food, it's genuine. There isn't a hint of manipulation evident.
True to form for a fresh Grenache, you get a plethora of raspberry character, perhaps even some "Now-Or-Later" cherry mixed in. There's also some white pepper spice to be sure, and a mouth full of rocks. The body is light-to-medium, and the combination of youth (wine) and age (vine) come through in the somewhat rustic, lasting finish.
The vines harvested for this wine go back to the days when Franco took power and when Picasso painted Guernica. On a political hiatus for decades, these sage vines are now just coming into their own. Therefore I'm raising a glass, to remember those people who suffered before, and to be enlightened with the wisdom to help alleviate future suffering. The planting of these vines was a bit before my time, but not really that long ago in the evolutionary big picture. History is changing fast, and as was said, "those who cannot learn from history are doomed to repeat it." Garnacha de Fuego kindles the mind, makes you think, doesn't cost a lot, and it even goes great with fried green tomatoes.
Here is a really fantastic recommendation for those of you who may already enjoy Austrian whites, as this wine has the capacity to detonate or reignite even the faintest bystander?s interest in Grüner Veltliner. If you have had Grüner and did not think much of the variety, I highly recommend giving Hofer?s an honest chance.
The label on this favorite of mine, in the spicy-white category, reflects Austria?s recent experimental appellation system of DAC?s, standing for the Latin, Districtus Austriæ Controllatus. Notwithstanding the seemingly imposing, archaic or superficially impressive appellation name (depends how you wish regard it), the crucial element to consider here is that Hofer?s wines are crafted seriously, so enjoying them turns out to be quite effortless. This Grüner sees time in stainless steel and is sourced from their Freiberg site in Weinviertel, one of Austria?s largest and most significant wine producing regions, in the northeast of the country. Should organic wines be of interest to you, Weingut Hofer belongs to Bio Ernte, a group whose producers operate on slightly different, some would argue higher, organic cultivation and production standards than even those dictated by say, the EU.
My notes: Pale, clear and golden. Clean nose with lovely stone fruit, spice, as well as mineral and floral elements. The palate is dry, with fresh, zesty lime acidity and slightly Riesling-like stone fruit, rocky minerality and spicy white pepper. These flavors, particularly the great peach/apricot flavors and white pepper, pervade the aftertaste.
Here is a really fantastic recommendation for those of you who may already enjoy Austrian whites, as this wine has the capacity to detonate or reignite even the faintest bystander?s interest in Grüner Veltliner. If you have had Grüner and did not think much of the variety, I highly recommend giving Hofer?s an honest chance.
The label on this favorite of mine, in the spicy-white category, reflects Austria?s recent experimental appellation system of DAC?s, standing for the Latin, Districtus Austriæ Controllatus. Notwithstanding the seemingly imposing, archaic or superficially impressive appellation name (depends how you wish regard it), the crucial element to consider here is that Hofer?s wines are crafted seriously, so enjoying them turns out to be quite effortless. This Grüner sees time in stainless steel and is sourced from their Freiberg site in Weinviertel, one of Austria?s largest and most significant wine producing regions, in the northeast of the country. Should organic wines be of interest to you, Weingut Hofer belongs to Bio Ernte, a group whose producers operate on slightly different, some would argue higher, organic cultivation and production standards than even those dictated by say, the EU.
My notes: Pale, clear and golden. Clean nose with lovely stone fruit, spice, as well as mineral and floral elements. The palate is dry, with fresh, zesty lime acidity and slightly Riesling-like stone fruit, rocky minerality and spicy white pepper. These flavors, particularly the great peach/apricot flavors and white pepper, pervade the aftertaste.
How could I omit the two intelligent value Godello picks? I chose these two because they convey distinct interpretations of the variety, in spite of the two D.O.?s not being terribly far apart. Taste them together to see the immense differences evident in each Godello within what would amount to a short bus ride from Bierzo to Valdeorras. It?s quite hard to argue that neighboring wine regions cultivating the same variety aren?t little miracles, with this sentiment growing even more potent for the wine lover within single vineyards with many producers, though that?s another topic altogether.
Enjoy this, one of many examples of all new things Spanish that will slowly become more prevalent in the U.S. market over the coming six months or so?Godello.
Before I forget, speaking of the next wave of imports from Spain, if you haven?t been paying attention to Telmo Rodríguez in the past few years, I would try his Godello and watch this video. Aside from being a fascinating Spanish entrepreneur, he exudes passion for well-crafted, regional wines. The video is eight minutes in length, though for some reason, it winds up being 3 and change. Nevertheless, listen to Mr. Rodríguez introducing his wines on a recent visit to Toronto?s Lifford Wine Agency. In essence, he is responsible for affordable little masterpieces from various Spanish D.O.?s. His progressive outlook in terms of production methods is matched by an ability to reinvigorate production of traditional varieties in the regions where he owns vineyards. This in turn, yields intelligent value wines from various Spanish D.O.?s that much like Susana Balbo?s wines in Argentina, seem to be produced in a manner which never sacrifices regional character for novelty or the wrong type of market's tastes. What with how things are going nowadays in the wine business, what a refreshing point of view!
Los vinos: 2007 Pilgrim Godello Bierzo D.O.
This wine is clean, pale straw and unassuming at first sight. The nose is vibrant, driven by wild flowers, citrus, treefruit and stone minerality. Complex mouthfeel, with a crisp, racy shot of acidity (pink grapefruit), alongside rich treefruit and distinctive mineral notes.
This wine is produced by Viñedos Agribergidum in Bierzo, located at the westernmost outpost of León bordering Galicia. The Godello vines are an average of 40 years old, with the variety purposely farmed to very low yields.
Imported by Beacon Wine Company. 2005 Gaba do Xil Godello Valdeorras D.O.
A really nice pale gold in the glass. The nose is clean and pronounced, with perfumey floral element, lush green pear, peaches, honeydew melon and touch of sweet spice. Complex but never overwhelming medium-bodied white with great balance of ripe fruit flavors and medium citrus acidity. Love the soft spice undertones that follow the lovely fruit into the aftertaste.
How could I omit the two intelligent value Godello picks? I chose these two because they convey distinct interpretations of the variety, in spite of the two D.O.?s not being terribly far apart. Taste them together to see the immense differences evident in each Godello within what would amount to a short bus ride from Bierzo to Valdeorras. It?s quite hard to argue that neighboring wine regions cultivating the same variety aren?t little miracles, with this sentiment growing even more potent for the wine lover within single vineyards with many producers, though that?s another topic altogether.
Enjoy this, one of many examples of all new things Spanish that will slowly become more prevalent in the U.S. market over the coming six months or so?Godello.
Before I forget, speaking of the next wave of imports from Spain, if you haven?t been paying attention to Telmo Rodríguez in the past few years, I would try his Godello and watch this video. Aside from being a fascinating Spanish entrepreneur, he exudes passion for well-crafted, regional wines. The video is eight minutes in length, though for some reason, it winds up being 3 and change. Nevertheless, listen to Mr. Rodríguez introducing his wines on a recent visit to Toronto?s Lifford Wine Agency. In essence, he is responsible for affordable little masterpieces from various Spanish D.O.?s. His progressive outlook in terms of production methods is matched by an ability to reinvigorate production of traditional varieties in the regions where he owns vineyards. This in turn, yields intelligent value wines from various Spanish D.O.?s that much like Susana Balbo?s wines in Argentina, seem to be produced in a manner which never sacrifices regional character for novelty or the wrong type of market's tastes. What with how things are going nowadays in the wine business, what a refreshing point of view!
Los vinos: 2007 Pilgrim Godello Bierzo D.O.
This wine is clean, pale straw and unassuming at first sight. The nose is vibrant, driven by wild flowers, citrus, treefruit and stone minerality. Complex mouthfeel, with a crisp, racy shot of acidity (pink grapefruit), alongside rich treefruit and distinctive mineral notes.
This wine is produced by Viñedos Agribergidum in Bierzo, located at the westernmost outpost of León bordering Galicia. The Godello vines are an average of 40 years old, with the variety purposely farmed to very low yields.
Imported by Beacon Wine Company. 2005 Gaba do Xil Godello Valdeorras D.O.
A really nice pale gold in the glass. The nose is clean and pronounced, with perfumey floral element, lush green pear, peaches, honeydew melon and touch of sweet spice. Complex but never overwhelming medium-bodied white with great balance of ripe fruit flavors and medium citrus acidity. Love the soft spice undertones that follow the lovely fruit into the aftertaste.
?You haven?t posted much recently?? Really, no way?I could only wish the reason behind this was holiday-making. Life is currently beyond hectic, recently going from consulting job back to teaching and onwards with a complicated move. Sometimes, I find that life (as in working, family events, consulting travel, etc.) can get in the way of reading an overpopulated Google Reader inbox and commenting on every blog and forum across e-creation. In fact and admittedly, I must say that I sort of prefer real life to this whole thing, though at any rate, I love to write, and I?m sort of pining for more precious time to write, whether on wine or a multitude of other subjects.
Pleasure aside, ?you know what time it is, it?s business time.? Who could possibly wait until early 2009 for more FOTC? At any rate, the intention of this post? I would like to see more artisan Godello imported and available in the North American market. This brilliant viño galego white, while being delicious and predominantly planted in the Valdeorras and Bierzo (yes, León) D.O.?s, is capable of conveying that the cool breezes, seascapes and gorgeous greenery of the region are all tangible in more ways than just through Albariño. I truly adore Rias Baixas Albariños, but I feel that little brother Godello needs some love too; and what better a time than now to try it out, since more regional producers than ever are beginning to invest serious attention in crafting these wines, with sights on the export markets in addition to the domestic one. I sort of find the idea of trying them side by side to be fun. Maybe find a nice Albariño (say a solid bottle of Códax or perhaps Pazo) to enjoy and compare alongside a crisp, complex Godello?goes without saying that some fresh seafood is in order here. Recommendations and notes upcoming?
?You haven?t posted much recently?? Really, no way?I could only wish the reason behind this was holiday-making. Life is currently beyond hectic, recently going from consulting job back to teaching and onwards with a complicated move. Sometimes, I find that life (as in working, family events, consulting travel, etc.) can get in the way of reading an overpopulated Google Reader inbox and commenting on every blog and forum across e-creation. In fact and admittedly, I must say that I sort of prefer real life to this whole thing, though at any rate, I love to write, and I?m sort of pining for more precious time to write, whether on wine or a multitude of other subjects.
Pleasure aside, ?you know what time it is, it?s business time.? Who could possibly wait until early 2009 for more FOTC? At any rate, the intention of this post? I would like to see more artisan Godello imported and available in the North American market. This brilliant viño galego white, while being delicious and predominantly planted in the Valdeorras and Bierzo (yes, León) D.O.?s, is capable of conveying that the cool breezes, seascapes and gorgeous greenery of the region are all tangible in more ways than just through Albariño. I truly adore Rias Baixas Albariños, but I feel that little brother Godello needs some love too; and what better a time than now to try it out, since more regional producers than ever are beginning to invest serious attention in crafting these wines, with sights on the export markets in addition to the domestic one. I sort of find the idea of trying them side by side to be fun. Maybe find a nice Albariño (say a solid bottle of Códax or perhaps Pazo) to enjoy and compare alongside a crisp, complex Godello?goes without saying that some fresh seafood is in order here. Recommendations and notes upcoming?
Following the theme of my last post about Americans? increasing awareness of the quality wines that many artisan producers of Argentina are exporting, I?m pleased to post the first installment of my interview with Ed Lehrman of Vine Connections. Along with his business partner, Nick Ramkowsky, they formed a company that not only imports the wines of artisan Mendoza producers, but selectively forges meaningful, long term relationships with them. As Ed Lehrman explains in the interview, this type of involvement encompasses much more than shipping and distribution, extending into representation, consulting, label design and many other crucial aspects which in the end, bring American consumers the types of genuine artisan wines that multinationals couldn?t even conceive of delivering.
Based out of Sausalito, CA, Vine Connections has been at the forefront of the changing of the guard, in terms of tastes, that I described in my last post. Their portfolio includes excellent California, New Zealand and Japanese Saké producers, alongside the wines of star Mendoza winemakers Susana Balbo and Pedro Marchevsky, along with others to look out for, such as Mapema, Tikal and La Posta del Viñatero. If you really want to know what Argentines really like to have at the table and moreover, the breadth that Argentine wines are capable of achieving, I encourage you to explore the types of artisan producers that Vine Connections represents and whose work, over the coming years, will ultimately triumph over the characterless, corporate-backed South American wines saturating our shelves.
I would like to thank Ed Lehrman for taking the time to provide his in-depth responses concerning Vine Connections, its vision and inspiration. Our conversation unfolded over e-mail:
*What is the vision behind your company and what were some of the key experiences that led you and your business partner to get started?
- My partner, Nick Ramkowsky, and I have both been in the wine business since 1986 (we started very young), and we could have done any number of things together. Nick was a small California distributor at the time, and I had just sold my direct-to-consumer wine business where he had been one of my suppliers. A fateful trip together in May of 1999 launched us into the importing/national sale & marketing business. We spent about a week in Mendoza on that trip tasting wines from bottle, barrel, tanks?you name it?and we met some incredible winery owners and winemakers. By the end of the week, we were looking at each other and asking, ?How does the 5th largest wine producer in the world hide incredible wines like these from the US?? It seemed like this must be the opportunity of a lifetime for wine guys like us to lead the charge in introducing Argentine wine to the US, and in a way that they would be fully appreciated for their quality and authenticity, and not just their price. As an aside, of the first 12 wines we imported from Argentina, the LEAST EXPENSIVE wine was $22 retail! So in fact, Vine Connections was originally formed in order to be an Argentine wine importer. *Compared to other importers, what is the depth of Vine Connection's involvement with the producers its represents? (in terms of consulting, marketing, other assistance, etc.)
- It is hard to speak about other importers, since some do quite a lot and some just taste and buy. As for us, we take the approach that we are the winery?s own sales & marketing department and they can use us for as little or as much as they need. That may mean writing back label copy, helping with label design, or determining whether a new blended wine is even a good idea to add to their portfolio.
For all of our wineries, we do the copywriting for all printed materials since we can communicate their stories in English more effectively, and along the same lines, we handle most press relations since we are here and readily available. And I guess the most valuable thing we do would be called ?consulting? since we offer our advice on many topics based on our 40 years of working in the U.S. wine biz. *How does your company forge relationships with producers? In this vein, what is the process like
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