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[06/08/2008, 00:34]

Working on the Road

As you may have noticed, Enotheque has been missing some updates for some time now. At the moment, I'm on the road at a very challenging but rewarding consulting job. The days are long and the nights seem all too short, resting only in brief moments before it's time to attend to the task at hand again.

I'll bring back some good posts with recommendations, interesting regions, values and interviews soon enough. For the time being, enjoy the other subscriptions of your Google Reader, since nobody is ever truly caught up with it anyway.

Cheers, salud, and we'll catch up soon.

Francisco


[10/08/2008, 09:12]

2006 Coppola "Encyclopedia Wine" Cabernet Sauvignon

landmark seriesYou should never buy a wine on appearance alone, but the postage stamp label and odd shape of the 2006 Coppola "Encyclopedia Wine" Cabernet Sauvignon caught me hook, line, and sinker. This is from Bordeaux, $14, 12.5% abv. The embossed molecule on the side of the Erlenmeyer flask-style bottle is a diagram of resveratrol, the compound in wine linked in some studies to health and longevity.

Aromas of blueberry and plum, with flavors of dark berries and a touch of tart cherry. Nice pie crust aftertaste. The body was a little thin at times but was overall an easy drinking cab sav. My only complaint is that it doesn't taste much like a Bordeaux; I was looking for earthy or vegetal notes, maybe even a touch of tobacco or something, but it was a fruit-forward wine more in the California style.

The wine is pretty food friendly, going well with beef and salumi and a dozen other odds and ends, and I'd heartily endorse this as a good all-purpose wine selection for Thanksgiving. I also love the fact that it's relatively low in alcohol: 12.5%. Definitely a nice change of pace from the big 15% cabs.

I do like the concept of this line--single grape wines from around the world, presented in a fun and affordable manner. It's obviously a marketing strategy towards the younger, curious wine drinker, and I hope this is successful both for the winemakers and the newcomers to the wine market.
[10/25/2008, 10:29]

Kiss The Anus Of A Black Cat

Afterlandmark series an initial wave of entangled, bowed-string dissonance, you'll soon find yourself struck by how closely this album orbits the Current 93 sonic globe, with Stef Irritant's vocals all-but imitating David Tibet's devilish delivery. There's less of an obvious folk influence at work here though, and 'Between Skylla And Charybdis' is a more of a diabolic avant-rock incantation than doom-folk prophecy. Next comes the medieval organ tones and ceremonial repetitions of 'Dyptich', whose title, in conjunction with those contrivedly silly vocals invites some sort of joke involving the word 'dipstick'. Finally, 'Miserere' arrives at the sinister, pagan folk recipe Nebulous Dreams has been hinting at all along, installing some bells, fingerpicked acoustic guitar and (more likely than not) a Maypole.
Info stolen from; Boomkat

Links;
Kiss The Anus Of A Black Cat - The Nebulous Dreams
Kiss The Anus Of A Black Cat @ MySpace
Kiss The Anus Of A Black Cat
Public Guilt & Implied Sound
KRAAK
Conspiracy Records



[04/02/2008, 00:23]

Great Cheese Find: Abbaye de Tamie

landmark series
Yes, monks can make great cheese. Abbaye de Tamie is such an example. It's a washed rind raw cow's milk cheese. It's not so easy to find, but worth the hunt.
landmark series
[06/03/2008, 05:02]

Friday night tasting

Domaine Daniel-Etienne Defaix Chablis Grand Cru Les Blanchots 1997
Oxidised, very tired.
NR/100

Tyrrells Vat 1 Semillon 1999
So young! Appealing nose of lemon and quince. Structured palate with a great line of acid and very good length. Plenty of potential to improve and develop here.
92/100

Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Village 2002
Quite “new world” in style with cherry and strawberries on the nose. The palate is on the thin side, with the flavour slightly dilute. Decent, drinkable, but uninspiring.
86/100

Ksara “Cuvee du Troisieme Millenaire” 2004
From Lebanon, made from Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah. Interesting nose of Raspberry, herbs and spices, ceder, smoke and cherry. The palate is well structured and balanced, with medium intensity of flavour, a supple texture and good length. Will improve over the next 5 years.
89/100

Seppelt St Peters 2002
Spice, red berries, some vanilla and some hinted floral characters. Concentrated palate, quite bold and ripe without being overwhelming. Tannins are quite soft, I wonder if they’ll hold up. Good, but not nearly as good as a bottle a couple of years ago that was exceptional. Might just be in a bit of a awkward spot at the moment, I will leave the next bottle for 4-5 years before trying again.
89/100

Clonakilla Syrah 2006
Complex, bright nose of floral elements, five spice, chocolate and bacon fat aromas. The palate is charming and almost impossible not to love, great length and balance between oak, fruit and acid. World class and a brilliant wine.
95/100

Domenico Clerico Barolo Pajana 2001
Nose of tar, pine, roses and cherries. Required food to tame the tannin on the palate. The fruit on the palate is bold and serious without being too over the top. Very good now, but patience will be rewarded.
91/100

Dönnhoff Oberhäuser Brücke Riesling Auslese 2006
Honey and a touch of spice to the nose. The palate is not as sweet as I expected, quite refined, minerally and subtle. Tasty and easy to drink.
90/100

Inniskillin Vidal Sparkling Ice wine 2004
Unusual if nothing else! Peaches, nectarine, honey and pineapple aromas on the nose. The light spritz cut through the sweetness somewhat but it still finished sweet. I think I’d rather it without the bubbles but glad to have tried it.
88/100

[11/05/2008, 01:39]

Food Stuff: These Pickles Have Your Burger Covered

Lowcountry Produce in Lobeco, S.C., is selling green tomato pickles.

[10/20/2008, 10:01]

Sherry in London

landmark seriesOn a trip to London last week, I tried to get a feel for how consumers might see sherry. Just ordinary consumers, not the sorts who buy wines from expensive West End merchants. Of course, this exercise was totally unscientific. In between errands and meetings, I dropped into as many shops as I could to get an idea of what a potential sherry drinker might experience. I stupidly forgot my camera at home, and the pictures my phone produced are simply not up to scratch for this post. So you will have to do with this picture of Tio Pepe and the amusing advert down below.

Anyway, the value wines account for the largest part of the steady decline in sherry sales and since most sherry in the UK (largest sherry market) is sold through the the supermarkets, these were necessarily my main ports of call. All the supermarkets I went into had house brands, which seemed to be fully representative, even including Amontillado and Oloroso wines (this surprised me). Tio Pepe was ubiquitous with Croft Original and Harvey’s Bristol Cream popping up in most places, including even smaller off-licenses (bottle stores), but not so much in the off-license chains, like Oddbins and Majestic. I’m certain if you ask any Briton to name a sherry, one of these three brands above will come up.

Tesco, the UK’s largest supermarket, has their house brand produced by Zoilo Ruiz-Mateos (part of Grupo Garvey). The Tesco packaging did nothing for me (nor did “Bodega Jerezana” at Waitrose and Sainsbury’s “Taste the Difference”) but I was not really expecting own-branded goods to do much. I’m sure the wines in these own brand bottles are very good but I could not help thinking that buyers own brands can’t be doing sherry any favours, as people will associate these good sherries with all things “cheap”. On top of this I was struck by the confused message Joe Bloggs might get seeing wines like Tio Pepe and possibly La Gitana (posing as light whites) on the same shelf as Croft Original and Harveys Pale Cream (posing as sweet fortifieds). The Harveys bottles put me in mind of Port more than anything else. This confusion can’t be doing any good to the “sherry” brand.

The off-license chains had more up-market wines, as you would expect. Emilio Lustau was well represented. The bottles (posing as sherries this time) were usually dusty, on low shelves and behind counters.  I came away from my little tour of London sherry shops feeling slightly downbeat.

Why is it that, almost to a man, the UK wine trade loves sherry, but consumers just don’t seem to get it? Is it because the sherry trade is not selling through to their consumers and potential new converts? I get the feeling the sherry trade might have lost touch slightly…

Thankfully I’m already converted and there is no need to preach to me and on a more positive note: If you ever find yourself in London and feel like a copa or two of decent sherry, head to one of the restaurants below, as they have a great selection of sherry on their wine lists.

Moro - 34-36 Exmouth Market, London EC1R 4QE (just down from Sadlers Wells, off Skinner Street).

Friends took me to Moro. We had a fun time and ate great food. The staff really know their onions, especially when it comes to sherry. I enjoyed a glass of Matusalem in lieu of pudding. Conveniently, I was able to hop on the 38 bus, which whisked me into the West End in no time.

Barrafina - 54 Frith Street, London W1D 4SL (Soho).

You can’t book here, so turn up early to make sure you get a spot. I was last there in February 2008 and ate Navajas (Razor Clams), Gambas al Ajillo and Tortilla. The Tortilla was made from scratch right in front of me and tasted delicious, the Gambas were nothing an Andaluz would recognise, a bit “Anglo” with their garlic portions, but tasty nontheless. My tipple, a glass of Valdespino Tio Diego. The food was great. They were a bit rude, but that wouldn’t stop me going back.

Fino - 33 Charlotte Street, London W1T 1RR (entrance around the corner).

The last time I went to Fino was a while back. We enjoyed some tapas at the bar and quaffed Manzanilla.

Cigala - 54 Lamb’s Conduit Street, London WC1N 3LW

Two of my London mates have recommended this place. I have yet to go, but their sherry list looks promising.

Hasta la proxima!

Justin Roberts

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[10/15/2008, 17:32]

Top Chef's Top Meal

Tom Colicchio opens Tom: Tuesday Dinner, an intimate restaurant in Manhattan's Chelsea neighborhood with two seatings a month and room for just 28.
[10/24/2008, 01:05]

Castagna Genesis Syrah 2002

landmark seriesBeechworth, Victoria, Australia. Shiraz with a touch of Viognier. Cork. Source: cellar.

Today seemed to be the right time to flick through my dust laden copy of The General Theory. Keynes is once again fashionable as Governments slowly rush to stimulate consumption and the media is awash with talk of GD2 (the Great Depression II). Reading the chapters on The marginal efficiency of capital and Long term expectations (chapters 11 and 12) I found these prescient comments.

On the issue of risk: 'During a boom the popular estimation of the magnitude of these risks, both borrower's risk and lender's risk, is apt to become unusually and imprudently low'.

On confidence and credit: 'But whereas the weakening of either (the state of confidence of the speculator and the state of credit) is enough to cause a collapse, recovery requires the revival of both. For whilst the weakening of credit is sufficient to bring about a collapse, its strengthening, though a necessary condition of recovery, is not a sufficient condition'.

Tasting note: This is unmoved since my last encounter. Scented with peppercorn and mashed blueberry it is slippery (presumably the Viognier) and yet muscled in the mouth. Once again the pepper is notable, though in support are chiseled tannins and juicy acids. Sadly this is my last bottle, I suspect its peak will only arrive in another decade.

Very good - excellent.
93+
2012+

technorati tags: ,
WorldWine Tags: wine, australian wine,
[07/02/2008, 20:15]

Au Jardin Les Amis - Singapore

Au Jardin Les Amis (”The Friends, In the Garden”) is situated in the tranquil Singapore Botanic Gardens, on the second level of an 1920s home. We were seated on a glass enclosed balcony with a relaxing view of the gardens. It is a wonderful setting and was a great place to spend some time on my last day in Singapore.

The service was attentive, professional and was invisible except when needed. The food was very good, it wasn’t innovative - but with clean, elegant and pleasing flavour profiles it was memorable for the taste and technique. I have read that this venue can have good and bad days, and I think this must have been a good day as everything seemed to go well.

Like Iggy’s, the price was more than fair - the meal consisted of an amuse bouche, an entree, consommé, main course, dessert, les mignardises and coffee and cost $52 AUD (including 7% GST and a mandatory 10% service charge) per person plus wine. I guess when every corner of the city has wonderful (and cheap) food, you have to be fair to stay alive.

The wine;

The wine list is extensive and full of very special bottles, as well as being generally well above my budget!

Donnhoff Oberhauser Leistenberg Riesling Kabinett 2006 (Nahe, Germany) - 8.5% alcohol -
Donnhoff is very quickly heading toward the top of my favourite Riesling producer list. This had aromas of sea salt, pears, tea leaves and mandarin. Delicate and long on the palate, there is some lovely fruit sweetness balanced by superb acidity. Lovely drinking now, but will age well over the next 10 years.
91/100

Bonneau Du Martray Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 1992 (Burgundy, France) 375ml - 13% alcohol -
Golden straw coloured. Butter, sesame, toast and honey aromas on the nose. Rich and creamy mouthfeel, with enough acid to keep the palate from being flabby. Very good length and texture. Drink now and over the next couple of years.
91/100

The food;

Prawn with Basil and Berry Foam with Apple juice
u

Cougette blossom stuffed with crab meat
u

Hon maguro with horseradish and roasted sesame dressing
u

Vine ripened tomato consomme with basil
u

Lightly smoked ocean trout with apple and fennel salad
u

Roasted flank steak and braised oxtail in red wine with seasonal vegetables
u

Kirsch parfait with cherry
u

Lychee jelly with lychee sorbet
u

Les mignardises with Coffee
u

[10/23/2008, 06:00]

Chilean Winery Buys 700 Acres in Patagonia (Wine Spectator)

Purchase by VC Family Estates is first major foreign investment in Argentina's up-and-coming region
[10/15/2008, 19:38]

2008 Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition

The 4th Atlantic Seaboard Wine Competition invited 800 Eastern wineries from Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Maine, Maryland, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New...

[03/21/2008, 03:59]

Small New Zealand Wineries Part 1

Te Whare Ra ( "Tee Faree Ra" is supposed to mean house in the Sun in Maori) is based in Marlborough New Zealand. This is on the south Island in the town of Renwick which is host to quite a few wineries including Cloudy Bay, Montana etc...

Established in 1979, this small boutique winery probably has some of the oldest vines in the area. In 2003, the husband and wife team of Jason & Anna Flowerday took the helm and have significantly upgraded various aspects of the winery. Although offering a Pinot Noir, IMHO they are a white wine producer with offerings mainly from Sauvignon Blanc, Reisling, Gerwurztraminer and Chardonnay. It's their aromatic wines which to me show their stuff here. Current size of the vineyards ~9 hectares with many coming from the older vines planted in 1979 ( almost 30 years ago) - I was told the Gerwurztraminer. Fruit is basically hand sorted and picked - now we are talking.

Cutting to the chase, my favorite wines from their lineup would be the "Toru" bottling and their Gerwurztraminer.

The "Toru" is a blend of several aromatic grape varietals consiting of Riesling, Gerwurztraminer and Pinot Gris. While tasting this wine, images of a picnic & grilled seafood keep popping up - probably my mind telling me that's where I should be with this. 89 points

The 2007 Gerwurztraminer to me is a standout here. The concentration and flavor in here just screams of old vines and low yields. The typical Lychee notes were present although not overpowering, minerals, hints of sweetness from the fruit with 22g/l of residual sugar - nice finish ( the wine was still going strong after being opened more than 24 hours). The best thing to compare this to would be an Alsatian Gewurtz VT. 92+ points

These guys deserve some room in your cellar.
[11/25/2006, 14:17]

u
Preparations for Christmas.

Santiago of Chile prepares itself to receive the Christmas.

While hurried wayfarers travel the Plaza of Weapon, a group of workers raised in nets, prepare a gigantic tree.

It will be finished in a few days more and be be almost so high as the centenary Cathedral, Satiago's former relic.
[10/15/2008, 01:20]

Bianchi 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

u The Award-Winning Wine:

Bianchi 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon

Reason for Reviewing:

Bianchi 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon is one of...

[11/25/2006, 08:42]

Fine Wine Encounter

At the Decanter event last weekend, it was great to see so many people  enjoying fine wine. Such a joy to have so many truly outstanding wines under the same roof laid out for the consumer.

At this particular Encounter Bordeaux epecially had a strong presence and the exhibitors read like a roll-call of the great and the good - though by no means exhaustive it certainly gave a very good schooling in what the fuss is all about. It proves that the UK is not all about Blossom Hill sugar water despite all the depressing statistics.

Not only were there members of the public that you would expect - I had some lovely older gentlemen coming up to me at the Jancis Robinson stand, just to tell me with a conspiratorial wink that they were already "purple pagers" - but lots and lots of young people. The majority in fact.  I hope this means that the next generation of wine drinkers/collectors/enthusiasts are trading up as they experience these wines first hand and making relationships with producers that may last a lifetime.

As well as the wines on offer there were also Masterclasses, the two most popular being the Margaux vertical and Jancis. Both of these will be available as podcasts - once the technology has been tamed- on the Decanter website and Jancis will put hers up on www.JancisRobinson.com

As well as all that, authors - Andrew Jefford and John Radford to name just two - were there for book signings and a very nice team from Riedel explaining all the subtle nuances of the various glasses and exactly why you need at least 10 different sets (I wish).

[12/04/2006, 07:21]

[12/31/2007, 02:39]

Happy New Year!

Happy new year everyone!

Have an amazing evening and above all - drink some great wine and champagne!

2008 promises to be an exciting year for The Cru so stay tuned!

To begin with I will be releasing a new look Cru in the next two weeks - it's going to a lot easy to navigate around and hopefully it will make finding your favourite South African wine that much easier and more enjoyable!

Until then have a great evening and enjoy the chosen Pouza!
[07/25/2008, 07:31]

How to become a wine writer

by Martin Field ?How did you become a wine writer?? It?s perhaps the most frequent question I?ve had from wine drinkers over the years. What they really mean is ?How could I go about becoming a wine writer?? In other words, they too would like a job they assume involves nothing more than the consumption of an endless round of free lunches and gratis wine samples. My life is nothing like that, I tell them. (I can lie like a politician when necessary.) The process My ticket on the gravy train was easy enough to obtain. The process really was as simple as follows and the dialogue is as accurate as memory will allow.
[07/27/2006, 12:40]

Wednesday, July 26, 2006

Today is my anniversary and Kipp and I have a babysitter so we are going out tonight. I'll make up for no blog today by posting one for Thursday!!
Cheers!
[11/04/2008, 23:58]

Pizza From Scratch: First, Get Bricks and a Trailer

Dave Sclarow has been spotted in recent weeks at the Brooklyn Flea in Fort Greene, toting a homemade brick-and-concrete pizza oven mounted on a boat trailer.

[04/22/2008, 05:17]

A new spin on grenache

[10/06/2008, 19:31]

What ? more punchdowns?

It’s sweatin’ time here again. We brought in the rest of our Pinot Noir last week, and processed about 35 tons in 3 days. We got through that, certainly, but then the monster that rears it’s head as a result is a *@!#-load of punchdowns….needless to say, I’m not very popular around here at the moment.
u

Maybe we should go back to doing it the old-fashioned way as it seems like it might’ve been more fun than modern times….at least the old-timers could drink some wine and hike up their skirts while mixing-up their fermenting must!

u

[09/24/2008, 09:46]

Investors turn to the Fine Wine Market

u

With the credit crunch looming large, 'alternative investments' such as fine wine are becoming increasingly popular. Figures from Berry Bros. & Rudd & Christie's Fine Wine Auction show a combined total of over two and a half million pounds worth of fine wine has been sold by these two companies in the past few weeks.
 
Berrys', the UK's leading independent wine merchant, has witnessed outstanding sales in the last few weeks, selling 1000 cases of 2006 Ch. Lynch Bages and 1000 cases of 2000 Dom Perignon Champagne, worth a combined total of one million pounds.
 
Christie's Bordeaux 2000 sale, held this week, saw bullish spending with the Ch. Lafite Rothschild 2000 making £10,925 per case and a case of Ch. Latour 2000 going for £9,200. Overall, the 'Highlights from a Superlative Millennium Vintage: Bordeaux 2000' auction realised a combined total of £1,654,775.
 
Historically great wines from great vintages have appreciated 10-15% per annum, so its no wonder investors are putting their money into alternative funds. And, with wine classed as a 'wasting asset,' any investment is free from capital gains tax.

... goes on to list 'Berry Bros. & Rudd's tips to investing in Fine Wine'. Worth a read.

» Full Story

Tags: , , , , , ,

u u
WorldWine Tags: melgab, wine, investment, ROI, auction, south-africa, South Africa,
[11/11/2008, 05:23]

Red Barn Winery Hearty Red

o

Another Desmond find!

Red Barn Winery opened May of 2004. It is located four miles North of the city of Syracuse in Liverpool, NY. Open Thursday thru Sunday 12 noon to 6 P.M.

o

Paul Martin is the sole owner and winemaker with decades of experience. Old world (European) winemaking experience and new winemaking techniques are incorporated to produce great wines. N.Y. State grapes and fruits are used exclusively. The 3000 sq. ft. winery is built around a ?Turn of the Century? design. Tasting room # 1 is cozy, consisting of a fireplace, rocking chairs, couches and plank floors. Tasting room # 2is of the Western saloon style, high ceilings ( 25?), hand hewn beams, plank floors and antiques.

The Hearty Red is a very nie, solid, table red. Dry, with notes of cherry and vanilla. Nice!
[09/25/2008, 03:10]

25 September - Wine Market 15% of for RBG members

It's been a long time between "feeds", but most of you seem to check pretty regularly anyway and there hasn't been a lot that is "momentous". Until the end of September you can get 15% off at Wine Market on anything they stock, multiple orders OK. Save multiples of your membership cost in one order. Details of the coupon code in today's update.
[10/07/2008, 05:01]

Meerea Park ?The Aunts? Shiraz 2006

oMeerea Park have been through a (pardon the pun) purple patch recently, especially with their red wines. The 2003, 2004 and 2005 vintages were very good to exceptional and the 2006 vintage of “The Aunts” Shiraz is no exception. There is one big difference this year, your favorite Aunts now come dressed in a bright red frock.

A clean and modern hunter nose of cherry, dusty earth, aniseed and hints of clove and nutmeg. Medium bodied with a solid backbone of fine tannin, blackberry fruit, balancing acidity and a goodly dollop of spicy oak. Good length, needs time.

I suspect the score will increase somewhat as the wine ages, this particular bottle was enjoyed very soon after the wine was released a couple of months ago, however I was very slack in writing up the tasting note. As a little side note, we now have more bottles of The Aunts Shiraz in the cellar from various vintages than any other label.

Score: 91/100
Price: $26
Closure: Screwcap
Alcohol: 13.5%
Other Opinions: Meerea Park
Would I buy this wine again?
Yes, quickly becoming a mainstay in our cellar.

o o
o
[09/26/2008, 18:45]